Gonk and XenonMan, thanks for weighing in on this.

Gonk, as for your comment about the wiring issue at the sub, I was initially thinking the same thing. That is why I double checked and triple checked the wiring connections and did internet research about dual voice coil ("DVC") sub (and the various wiring options and pitfalls). But, after I blew the third channel on the amp, I checked that each set of positive and negative wires at the sub produced some sound out of the sub, and then I said screw it, connected all the positive wires together and then connected all the negative wires together between the last amp channel and the sub (with the ICBM now in mono and only one of two input wires from the ICBM feeding the single subwoofer amp channel and the single positive and negative wire to the sub), turned it on, and crossed my fingers. Sound came out of the sub; and nothing bad happened. But the bass does seem to be thin--although I am not sure based on my frustration. Therefore, given the lack of problems when all the positive wires were hooked together and all the negative wires were hooked together from the single sub wire from the amp to the dual set of wires from the sub, I am just not sure anymore that the wiring in the sub is wrong. As such, I am wondering also if the stereo setting on the ICBM was problematic because I read that DVC subs are sensitive to minor variations in signal as could happen between right and left stereo hookups and thus mono settings are preferrable. But the sub manual doesn't mention any such concern and it suggests connecting stereo wires from the amp to the two different coils on the DVC sub!

XenonMan, as for your comment about going back to basics, I believe that is a good idea, including unbridging the amps and unconnecting the ICBM. Hell, I blew so many channels, why not risk some more as the amp has to go in to be repaired anyway--besides if I unbridge the amps, I have more channels to try the stereo sub hookup again. But, one point I need to clarify is that the Atrium 10 sub is not powered, it is passive--it just has two voice coils with two sets of positive and negative wires, one set for each voice coil (4 speaker level wires total--2 positive/2 negative--with no line level inputs). Therefore, any additional thoughts given that the sub is not powered?

Also, when do I give up and send the sub back to get it checked? Before starting from scratch with the wounded amp, or after I go back to basics with the wounded amp? Same question about when to send the sub in to get checked and/or fixed? I know I am probably well past those ponts; but right now, I am so frustrated that I am not sure what to think and I am not sure how I am going to boil things down to figure out the problem(s).

Again, thoughts from the Outlaws would be greatly appreciated.

Ed.