Originally Posted By Stephen B
I start w/one channel at a time ...
With a test signal, (e.g. pink noise)...
Originally Posted By Stephen B
...then run [test again] all together to check interactions.
such as room modes. So far, so good.

Originally Posted By sdurani
Each channel gets independent signals...
...only when watching a movie or listening music
Originally Posted By sdurani
...so if you're checking their interaction using the same [test] signal, that doesn't tell you anything about what it [or they] will sound like in actual use.
Checking "their interaction" (or correctly) the final calibrating, is not supposed to "tell you" what your system will sound like in actual use.
If your system's "interaction" has balanced tone and all channels (2, 5, 6, 7, or 8) are wired w/ matching polarity*, in theory, the system should not "have a sound." It should be "invisible to your ears."
* incorrectly referred to as in-phase

Examine my signature carefully. You will see a very complex system. Tri-amped LCR channels & dedicated surround L&R channel subs not to mention an LFE/sub. I used the same thought process as SteveB to guide me from from a to z. The final steps I use selected tracks from CDs* I've heard thousands of times on many systems over the last 35 years, some costing well up in the 5 figures.
* and certain video passages

Tony



Edited by 975 destroyer (09/08/17 09:58 PM)
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Samsung 60" LED
Outlaw Audio 976
Samsung BD player, Phillips CD chgr, Dish DVR, Firestick

Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids*, inside & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside & out

LR: Tri-amped Polk RTi A7
Rotel RB980s -> woofers; Rotel RB981s -> mids w/phase plugs & tweeters
CC: bi-amped Polk CSi A6 -> Rotel RB981
SWs: Sunfire & 4 Audio Pros - LFE True Sig; 4 Evidence - 1 @ ea corner
Surrounds: Rotel RB981 -> Polk RTi A3
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman MP-20s