""It would seem monkeyplasm has left the thread due to no one agreeing with him the issue is all Outlaws fault.""

As it turns out the OP did not leave the thread, he was just busy over the weekend with some non-profit work. <end of 3rd person silliness>

""My CS experiences with Ben have been first rate. I realise op did not get the answers he/she (I am guessing he) wanted and then seemed to get upset when no one jumped on the bash Outlaw/Ben bandwagon.""

No bandwagon was being loaded. I don't think I bashed Outlaw or Ben, who was both helpful and quite pleasant to speak with. I'm really not sure where all the defensiveness-by-proxy is coming from. As previously noted there was no histrionics on my nor Outlaw's part.

""If you read this monkeyplasm just because a person may not agree with your thoughts in this does not make their reply a personal attack.""

The only post I responded to negatively was the post that immediately rushed to provide a pedantic and rather inane "Rule #1" about how it's all my fault and therefore blah, blah, blah. Since that poster has declined to re-post indicating I was mistaken in discerning his purpose, then, yeah.


I said earlier that *I* cranked up the volume. I'm not sure why that's a point that needed illumination or why it might be mysterious. Really, who else would it be, Peter Tribeman? Of course it's ultimately "my fault" and not "Outlaw's fault". However, I *am* trying to determine the bad actor so I know where to make adjustments or replacements. I *am* disappointed that, seemingly unlike the Luxman product, the Outlaw product will allow the user to push the RR2150 too far and output an unruly signal. C'est la vie (or however the Frenchies spell it).

The replacement tweeters arrived today. They were well packaged. Be careful to not set them down on their faces as the dome sits slightly proud of the mounting plate surface.

I'll try to embed pictures.

Here's the LCR with old tweeter unmounted:


Here's the new tweeter:



As a side note, the screws holding in the tweeter mounting plates are Torx #9 (dinky little things), and they are in there TIGHT. Strangely, the screws holding the actual tweeters to the mounting plates are Hex (unsure the size as I don't have hex that small): Freakin' engineers that can't be bothered to standardize.

Anyway, you'll want to press down very hard and very orthogonal, and apply only just enough pressure to get the screw turning. You can just tell the screw heads are dying to strip out on you, so Torx was probably the only viable option.

The actual tweeter/plate just falls out of the routed recess by turning the cabinet over. That's not to say the fit is loose, it's rather some nice router work.

New Tweeter #1 measures 3.5/3.6 ohm on the "200" scale (.003 ohm on the '+' scale)
Speaker #1 tweeter measures nothing at all (open circuit)
New Tweeter #2 measures 3.4/3.5 ohm on the "200" scale (.003 ohm on the '+' scale)
Speaker #2 tweeter measures nothing at all (open circuit)

MultiMeter: Crappy Harbor Freight thing.

Note that the tweeters connect via push-on type connectors so there's no soldering. Be aware they are on very tight and you'll probably want to hold the speaker tab with pliers when pulling off the connector/wire, lest ye rip the speaker tab right off the speaker.

The crossover seems to be mounted perpendicular to the front plane of the speaker cabinet, just behind the back panel. You might not be able to see it well in the pictures. The cabinet is otherwise filled with the expected bum-fluff poly-fill-floss-stuff to break up back waves from the mids.

I played the RR2150 through some total garbage speakers and they sounded fine (for what there are), Test #1 passed. I then played my third LCR and it sounds fine, cautiously 'good'. The new tweeters are installed and they sound like the old ones used to (that it to say 'fine' as well). OK, speakers are back to normal, just gotta keep the volume down for now.

Another poster above mentioned using a pro-audio amp. I used a Crown Powerbase 1 for home audio many years ago (as well as a Peavey I can't recall the model). I found the Pro-audio stuff to have a poor noise floor: Fine for the stage but crap for the living room. Plus it was a pain in the ass to keep un/connecting and dragging it in/out of the house.

Not sure where to go from here but at least things are back to normal for now. This absolute vs. relative volume was an unknown to me thing but I certainly think from a blowout-avoidance perspective relative volume might be a preferable idea. I expect such a mechanism might require one or more feedback circuits to clamp down the output as necessary, thus requiring a pre-power setup that talks to each other, or another receiver so pre- and power- are in the same chassis.

Thank you for your participation in this thread.

Bonus from the Odd and Unexpected Detail file: Did you know the little Outlaw logo on the grill not only sits int a small indentation in the metal grill, but it is spring loaded and can be rotated into any 90/180/270 degrees?