how to Bi-wire a speaker from 7125, do you run two pair of speaker wire from one speaker out or from seperate outs?

7125 outs
--------------------------------
L....SL....SBL...C...SBR..SR....R
||...||.......................||.||
||...||.......................||.||
\\...//..........................\\.//
--------.............or........-------
speaker.......................speaker
--------.......................-------

... are there to preserve spacing when i submit.....


also is there truly any benefit of bi-wiring or true benefits will be see if you bi-amp only?

bit confused, I did read the article on
http://www.audioforums.com/forums/showthread.php?14401-Bi-wire-vs-Bi-amp

still confusing.

Gonk or any other experts on this forum, if you could please shed some simple answers.

about my mirage speakers :

Speaker Terminals: The OMD-15 uses high quality gold-plated bi-ampable binding posts located on the rear of the speaker. The terminals will accept a wide range of connector type including spade lugs, banana plugs or pin type connectors. The versatile speaker terminals allow you to connect the OMD-15 speaker in the traditional method or Bi-Wire or Bi-Amplification method.

currently i am just running one wire from left and right channels on the 7125 to each speaker.

Just curious if Bi-wire or Bi-ammping would make it any better, they sound phenomenal as it is.

thanks.

RCUBE.

---------------
Outlaw 7125
Pioneer Elite VSX-32 (used as PRE)
Mirage OMD-15
MIrage OMD-C1
Mirage OMD-5
polk in cieling - for surround backs
polk DSW PRO subwoofer
sony PS3 bluray
Panny PT-AX200U projector

I would not worry about Buywiring. Like you said enjoy.

I could be off base here, but if you have the speaker wire already, I would say its worth giving it biamping a try. The theoretical advantage is that you would have 125 wpc just for the base portion of the L&R OM-15s and a simpler load on each amp channel.

If you don't like it, its easy enough to switch back.

He is talking about Buywiring, not biamping. Even if he was attempting biamping, unless it is done correctly there is little to know benefit.

http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/biamping.html

Sirquack: Not sure why you are griping about my reply.

1) RCube actually asked about both. "Just curious if Bi-wire or Bi-ammping would make it any better"
2) If you look at the diagram RCube posted, that is bi-amping not bi-wiring.
3) Both the description of the OMD-15 RCube provided and the OMD manual, both state that bi-amping is possible without speaker modification. The shorting strap as discussed in the manual does need to be removed, but this is trivial. Neither specifically state that an electronic cross-over is required. The manual does however waffle slightly and says talk to the retailer. Clearly, if an electronic cross-over is required then, yes, what I am suggesting would not work. Nor is the power beyond that recommended by Mirage.
4) Nothing that I posted is in disagreement with anything in the link you posted (please look at the footnote).

As for the benefits, they may be trivial or significant, depending upon factors not mentioned in your link like the efficiency of the speakers, the room size and volume that RCube typically listens to music at. So if he has the speaker wire, testing both layouts doesn't cost anything other than the time spent doing the wiring and comparing.

I would hesitate to connect two channels of the 7125 together at the output stage for any reason. Bi-wiring is just what it says. Two wires run from a single channel of the amp to the speaker terminal with the jumper strap still installed. This basically gets the gage of the wire larger but in reality does very little to improve your performance and just adds more connections to go bad.
If you want to bi-amp your speakers, you remove the jumper strap between the woofer and the tweeter sections and wire each of them to a separate channel on the amp. Beware that although the amp is likely to power the woofer section just fine, the tweeter will likely be grossly overpowered from the 7125. You also have to take into consideration the impedances of the two sections because if either one is very low you could be challenging the amp.

Remember that the input to the amp will have to be split between the SR/R and the SL/L channels with some sort of wye connector to get the same signal going to the upper and lower speaker sections. Otherwise you will have one speaker trying to perform two different spatial aspects in your system.

All the bi-amp arrangement is going to get you is more power available to the woofer section of your speakers. If you are running a subwoofer like most do these days, then the advantage rapidly disappears because the sub is provideing all the low end sound and the mains are just coasting along anyway. 125 watts of clean power to any speaker is going to be pretty freakin loud.

I suggest you connect the speakers straight up with the jumper strap installed and leave it like that for a while until you get used to how it sounds. Then if you change it around you will be able to discern any improvements.

Xenon:

Just to be clear, and contrary to your instructions, OMD recommends removing the shorting straps of the OMD-15 for both bi-wire and bw-amplification. See Page 3 of the manual for the written instructions and diagrams 7 and 8 respectively on page 32 which shows the shorting straps removed. Diagram 6a on page 31 shows the connections for a single wire system with the shorting straps.

By all means you should follow the manufacturers instructions, but electrically there is no difference if the shorting strap is installed or not, since both sets of wires are connected back at the amp to the same terminal points. Unless the shorting strap has a different resistance than the wire there is no real delta except more wire/bigger gage. The manual even says that. I would still listen to them straight up for awhile before I decided they needed some esoteric improvement which is dubious to hear anyway. The manual also steers you to the dealer to decide which type of equipment you should use for the bi-amp application as it likely knows that the separate impedances could challenge the amp.

If your speakers have a passive crossover, which most do, removing the strap is not true bi-amping. You have to have external crossovers as the article explains. 73, not sure why you said I was griping, can you sense that in my typing? The OP asked about bi-wiring (aka Buy wiring) which will result in no improvement, as X man mentioned your just changing where the signal is split. You mentioned bi-amping in your first sentence, sorry just tried to clarify the difference.

Removing the jumper bars or wires on speakers with internal crossovers can still allow for bi-amping. Specifically, it can allow for "passive bi-amping," which basically just allows for more power. The benefits are less than with "active bi-amping" (with external crossovers located before the amps). Basically all passive bi-amping is doing is providing more power. The speakers in question are 6 ohm and 91dB efficient, which means the 7125's output (which will be around 150+ watts with a 6 ohm load) is probably more than enough unless you are using the speaker in a truly huge space, making the benefits of passive bi-amping very, very negligible.

Biwiring is basically providing a larger gauge of wire. Some claim that separating the wiring for the high and low portions of the speaker reduces some transfer between the two, but I have my doubts about that.