I have had a similar intermittent lost LF channel issue after the receiver has been operating for an hour or so. The relay click occurs, then the LF channel cuts out. I have discovered that when that occurs, I can get the channel to return, every time, by mechanically pushing down (with the cover off)on one of the 10000uf electrolytic caps on the mother board. From this symptom I have deduced that the problem is a cold solder joint on the area of the capacitor. I have not figured out how to get to the bottom of the mother board so I can scope it out and fix it.

My amp sits at ear level to my immediate left so the temp-fix is easier than finding the bad connection.

I have a similar problem. My issues involves the FR channel which cuts in and out after an audible click. Anyone have any experience with the repair and how durable the repair is, or if more channels tend to become involved over time?

PS I would love to have Outlaw come out with the next integrated receiver with HDMI switching. I love the idea of a high quality budget integrated receiver. I love my 1050 and would by the next version in a heartbeat. Any news from the saloon on timing for the 1070 replacement?

This has now just started happening to me now. I hate to complain because it has lasted me 7 years, but there does seem to be a pattern here.

Does this need to be sent back to Outlaw for repair or are there other options?

I just started having this same problem. I thought it was a short, but after rehooking up the receiver I continued to have the same problem.

I have owned the 1050 for probably 8 or 9 years and never had any problems till now.

Is there a fix for this?

I bang on the receiver when the center channel goes out and that works. But some times the whole receiver switches off.

I've had a similar issue with my 1050 ... but I've been running in stereo mode driving a pair of M200's, so what's happening to me is either of the front channels will cut out - usually the left, although occasionally the right will go. I never tried (thought of) the "pressure" trick, although I have had my 1050 opened up many times over the years. However, I've found that increasing the volume will always bring it back.

I typically run at a volume of "28" or so. If I increase the volume to 40 or sometimes 50, the missing speaker will come back to life.

*Very* rarely I've had both cut out and at those times, I can tell that they're not totally dead, but that there's actually the sound IS there, it's just at a very, very low volume.

pat----

Add me to the list. For the past month or so I've been having this issue with the center channel speaker cutting out and hearing an audible click. I chalked it up to wires shorting and dreaded dismantling my system and hooking it all back up. I did exactly that today and within 30 minutes the problem continued. Sorry to say but for the cost of the repair I might as well go to Best Buy or Fry's and get a $179 Pioneer or Denon that has HDMI switching and support for all the recent audio codecs. I guess it was great while it lasted even though it also suffered from the dreaded faulty volume knob issue after only one year.

I bought my 1050 used 2 years ago. It lasted a year before the left front started cutting out. My solution was an external power amp (Parasound HCA1000A) hooked up to the pre-outs. This has added another year of use so far. The center & surround channels are still good.

Jim

The clicking isn't driving you batty?

It might not click if the amps are not working. I had a Sony which had the same issue after 8 years of service. It would get hot then click, the sound was out. Minutes later it would click and back to normal. I put it down to a weak relay or an intermittent solder joint problem.

No clicking, the front speakers are connected to the Parasound, not the 1050.