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#31686 - 12/13/07 05:19 PM Re: Please clarify how "bass boost" and "bass control" work
gonk Offline
Desperado

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 14054
Loc: Memphis, TN USA
Another option that would easily match the Polk is to get in on the Santa\'s Sonic Boom promotion and get an LFM-2 for $239 plus shipping or go up to the LFM-1 Compact for $339 plus shipping. The LFM-2 doesn't have as large an amp as the Polk, but amp ratings on subs can be tricky - the performance specs count for more, and the Polk 505 has a -3dB point of 28Hz compared to the LFM-2's -2dB point of 28Hz (meaning a hair more low frequency extension for the Outlaw amp).
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#31687 - 12/13/07 05:57 PM Re: Please clarify how "bass boost" and "bass control" work
rru2s Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 12/05/07
Posts: 39
Looking back on the other bass threads in this forum, I see I just missed the bargain this year with the clearance of the discontinued LFM-1. That would have been a steal at $429.

The LFM-1 compact sounds nice, but I would rather have 12 inch speaker, wouldn't we all?

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#31688 - 12/13/07 06:50 PM Re: Please clarify how "bass boost" and "bass control" work
gonk Offline
Desperado

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 14054
Loc: Memphis, TN USA
I don't know that the Compact's 10" driver is going to be a compromise compared to the alternatives being considered. After all, even with 12" drivers both the Polk and the Velodyne start to roll off before the Compact (which is -2dB at 25Hz, compared to -3dB at 28hz for the Polk 505 and -3dB at 29Hz for the Velo VRP1200).
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#31689 - 12/14/07 11:21 AM Re: Please clarify how "bass boost" and "bass control" work
garthr Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 08/04/06
Posts: 108
The only way to explain all this to the spouse is to be honest about it. Your intention to buy your audio gear is already known, so now you are fine tuning your selection. You never really know how audio gear is going to sound until you get it into your own home environment, so buying and returning things is inevitable .

You do not appear to be a person that buys/sells/trades audio gear frequently, so for now, you should have the space to do as you need to find the right gear , since it is a long term investment.


I really would not bother with a Polk and get an Outlaw sub, they are made to work perfectly with their products , and I suspect dollar for dollar they are better products. As they say ...... you can pay for it now ..... or pay for it later ! LOL smile

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#31690 - 12/14/07 02:38 PM Re: Please clarify how "bass boost" and "bass control" work
rru2s Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 12/05/07
Posts: 39
Having done a few hundred googles for reviews and reread both product lines (HSU and Outlaw), it looks like there are about 4 choices here:

$ 339 - LFM-1 compact: 10" speaker, 225watt continuous, 38 lbs, 17hx13x19, warranty: 3 yrs

$ 500 - HSU VTF-2-mk-3 12": 250watt, 60 lbs, 22hx15x23, warranty: 7 yrs speaker, 2yr electronics

$ 549 - (SALE) LFM-1 EX: 12", 12", 350watt, 80 lbs, 22hx17x24, warranty: 3 yrs

$ 629 - HSU VTF-3-mk-3: 12", 350watt, 80 lbs, 22hx17x24, warranty: 7 yrs speaker, 2yr electronics

Furthermore, right now music is important, not movie explosions (but maybe next year when I purchase HDTV). So my goal is bass that is even and not muddy and follows the bass instrument without dropoff or boomy deviations in SPL in various frequencies in the actual listening room.

However, I don't want to shell out EVEN MORE for a SMS-1 to tune the speaker to the room and I don't even own a functioning EQ anymore.

Given these caveats, if I buy a cadillac subwoofer and it kicks out major SPL, then if the darn thing isn't tuned just right for the room it will fail more miserably because it will be more obvious at high volume.

My living room is 25' x 15.5' x 8', with a 7' wide opening to dining room of size 15' x 13'. The room is carpeted with drapes on 2 picture windows, and the main speakers are a pair of highly efficient Polk Audio monitor 70s corner mounted at the end of the room, one atop the sub, and the sub about 6 to 8 inches from wall and pointed to the center of room.

The sub I have is a 130 watt POS, but it still gives some good thump, just very uneven frequency response and very muddy.

Placement of all speakers gives no dead spots -- I can hear bass in the center of the room, along the sides and end where the couches are, and even in the center of the adjacent dining room, since the corner where the sub is points diagonally towards the open air entrance to dining room near opposite corner.

And the Polk Monitor 70s are now lifted off the ground sitting atop the sub in one corner and on top of a 14 inch toybox in the other corner. The imaging is perfect with these Polks, each one has great midrange from two 6.5 inch midrange, two 6.5 inch bass, and one tweeter.

But I'm not sure the Polks really need the highest power (350watt) sub or something smaller.

Last night I took one last stab at trying to get the most out of the Velodyne VRP1200 sub. Firstoff, circuit city will give me a full refund.

This time I did NOT run the Outlaw RR2150 subout into the Velodyne LFE, because with that previous setup the Velodyne had to be set to 100 percent volume to even hear it, and even then I had to put the Outlaw 55Hz bass boost on, and used a 60Hz Outlaw crossover.

Instead, I troubleshooted using the RR2150, without any internal crossover, and using speaker outputs "A" for the Polks and "B" for the sub, so I could test A or B or (A+B). I only needed to have the sub's volume set to 50 percent, not 100 percent like before. Powering the Velodyne by itself I played with the crossover - it was muddy sounding above 80 or 90 Hz, but diminished volume if set to below 75 Hz. Also, the bass did not have good definition of individual notes. The Polks sounded fine by themselves, well into mid-bass, but the bass guitar was not pronounced enough.

Overall it is listenable, but the bass is very uneven at present and it probably overemphasizes mid-bass since both speakers are playing bass frequencies. I didn't want to run 100 percent of my quality Outlaw signal into the sub, then run the mains from the sub's speaker output, since it is probably a poor quality crossover on the cheap sub, and I didn't want the sound quality in the mains to suffer. Or am I wrong there- would it not make much difference in sound quality for the main speakers to have them routed through the sub's crossover first?

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#31691 - 12/14/07 06:02 PM Re: Please clarify how "bass boost" and "bass control" work
garthr Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 08/04/06
Posts: 108
I have to wonder .... now that you're looking at all these pricey subs , if you'd be better off with a pair of full ranged floor standers.

I'm only speaking for myself here, but there is nothing like two non-powered floor standing speakers with a full frequency range. It just seems natural to me that way. I have not shopped for such speakers these days, but I suspect you need to spend well over a grand to get such speakers. A sub and two speakers has never sounded right to me, maybe dual subs would sound more "normal". It sounds like you're having trouble with your systems not sounding "right" too. With one bass speaker ...... hmmm.

My old Bose 601 II's may not be for everyone, but they rock .... literally..... they can shake the windows and walls. This is the best investment I ever made in audio , $550 in 1982 . The bass easily goes into the mid 20's . With the availability of subs these days, it seems speakers like these have fallen from fashion. Speakers with 8, 10 or 12" woofers are becoming more rare . It's too bad though ....... kids grow up today with subs and may never get to even hear the beauty of simply two kick butt speakers. I've tried to get rid of the 601's numerous times , thinking I'd find a more satisfying "modern" speaker ....... but I always returned everything I've tried smile

Bottom line though ..... you don't buy speakers very often . You may as well take your time , enjoy the process and get what you really really want !

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#31692 - 12/14/07 06:15 PM Re: Please clarify how "bass boost" and "bass control" work
rru2s Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 12/05/07
Posts: 39
In substance I heard the same opinion on the Polk Audio forum, after I purchased the Outlaw RR2150 and the Polk Monitor 70s. A guy said, go back to your old vintage system (Polk Model 10s and 180wpc power amp, EQ, and receiver), and return the stuff I bought.

But for the reasons expressed earlier (not wanting to forever keep having to fix separate components as they repeatedly go bad after 30 years), I am not going to fix my old components again.

At this time, I am in a pinch more with money, I have one kid in college, another starts next fall, and a stepdaughter in college. I was bad and took about 10 percent of a monetary gift to help with the kids college and had some fun replacing the stereo. But at least 90 percent of the money paid off most of my credit card, so I should be in a decent position to take out college loans for my son next fall. Not to mention son will need a new laptop for college, and I owe son 400 babysitting money for fall and another 400 advance for spring, plus 600 dollars for his Xmas and Bday that I said I would combine together at Christmas time and help him buy his first car.

Initially, it was my significant other who said it would be nice to listen to Christmas CDs on something nicer than PC speakers.

However, she quickly suggested expanding HER Christmas list when I revealed my final selection -- $540 on floorstanding loudspeakers and $650 on a receiver, which is fair.

But later she resisted when I mentioned I wanted to add a subwoofer -- that's when I ordered a massage table.

She bit her tongue when she saw the size of the subwoofer and wondered if I had upgraded, and I told her I had (Velodyne sub price $250 instead of $170).

At this point, she has seen me fussing with it a couple nights to get better sound. But personally, she can't hear any problem with the sound -- she's happy with it.

I mentioned that maybe I'd have to return the Velodyne, and without even talking price she objected to upgrading again.

So I might just be stuck with the Velodyne. It's not perfect but I'm not in a place right now where I can afford perfection.

But anyway, if B-stock suddenly showed up for an LFM-1, I would jump like a frog. I have a few days still to return the Velodyne if I decide.

Your suggestion for full powered speakers is good, but I don't want to go overkill on $$$.

Polk has higher models, but they don't seem to offer a lot of bang for the buck. None have more than two 6.5 inch midrange. The woofers in even the $1100 speakers are only 7 or 8 inch. And they still are those narrow-style cabinets, so they won't give those nice deep bass resonances like the older larger cabinets used to.

I personally think that because the entire speaker industry has decided that floorstanding speakers are supposed to be skinny to fit alongside home theatre, that you can no longer get a good deal with a large width cabinet and a decent woofer in a pair of loudspeakers unless you go way over $1000 a pair.

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#31693 - 12/14/07 07:09 PM Re: Please clarify how "bass boost" and "bass control" work
rru2s Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 12/05/07
Posts: 39
What I've decided is to return the Velodyne now so I don't lose the ability to get 100 percent of my money back, since in the long run it isn't worth $250 and is a bit uncomfortable on my ears to hear the distortion, thumpy, and muddy music listening quality.

Then I'll sit back and monitor websites until I see some B-stock become available. Patience will pay off.

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#31694 - 12/14/07 07:37 PM Re: Please clarify how "bass boost" and "bass control" work
garthr Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 08/04/06
Posts: 108
I get where you're coming from better now . I know how it goes when you have to explain your budget, then that budget gets stretched smile

You are right on about the speaker industry. They now call us "old school " for liking a "regular" full faced speaker. These skinny and deep speakers ..... I'll never get used to them . There are still a some of the full face makers left , but no many. One site I saw recently was a small builder called Human Speakers http://www.humanspeakers.com/human/index.html, he makes speakers and sells kits for them too. Buy or make you own cabinet . He used to work for Epicure/Genesis , so if that rings a bell you can call yourself "old school" . LOL smile His stuff costs more than your budget, but I'm just sharing it to show there are some such craftsmen left. He sells some refurbished old EPI models too http://www.humanspeakers.com/specials.htm. Check out the EPI 201,the specs are the original, not updated . Now they have his new drivers in them which are much better. I bet it rocks with two 8" woofers.

Another cool idea (to me, at least), is a speaker call the Silent Speaker http://www.directacoustics.com/home.htm
http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue26/direct_acoustics.htm
If I was ever to consider another speaker, I'd give these a try because I like non-traditional designs like these. Read the review , it sounds great ...... but who knows until you get them home. Don't let the odd specs fool you though. I think the guy runs a one man operation . This may not be for you either, but it is something I've come across that someone may be interested in . There's more to speakers than just a box and a set drivers ! Soundstage .... imaging .... etc . There is nothing like a speaker with no specific sweet spot .... it's everywhere. It reminds me of how much I like the recordings from the 50's 60's and 70's , when they actually had different instruments in separate channels.... it was like being in the studio . Another lost art .

Happy hunting for whatever you choose though. Yep, patience usually always pays off . Glad you got rid of the poor sub and choosing something else.

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#31695 - 02/23/08 01:47 AM Re: Please clarify how "bass boost" and "bass control" work
Lash Offline
Deputy Gunslinger

Registered: 02/22/08
Posts: 3
I can't believe no one mentions Athena for moderately priced subs. I've had one for a few years and love it. Check them out.

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