RG-6 sub or interconnects

Has anyone used RG-6 with RCA connectors for interconnect. I may use this for my sub depending of the placement of them. I looked for threads on this and didn't find one. Is the wire gauge of RG-6 suitable for this. I have never seen the inside of a good quality audio cable to see what the wire size is.

Brad

I have used RG-59 and think they are great. I believe the 59 was suggested by Soundhound a while back.

i think u r right keta.here's one link,the other link i found can't find the page

http://ubb.outlawaudio.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?/ubb/get_topic/f/14/t/000100.html#000002

I use RG59 for all of my interconnects, and it makes custom length an easy task. I found RG6 a bit too stiff.

Keta & Paratrooper:

What brand of RCA connectors are you using with the RG59? Do you have a preference for crimped or soldered connectors? Do you have a favorite online source for all you supplies? Thanks!

AvFan,

I have had great performance with permaseal compression connectors from Smarthome.

Thanks, Paratrooper. Do you use the Steren compression tool as well? What RG59 cable are you using? After I sent my last post I looked at the Canare plugs and crimping tool. It seemed like a lot of $$$ to get set up with the crimping tool, appropriate die plus the stripping tool. However, nice looking plugs/cables when finished. I just don't know if the added expense over the Permaseal plugs using the Steren tool is worth it. I intend to use these cables for analog audio signals from various components to my 990. Thanks again!

I've used the Canare tool/supplies before and highly recommend them. The downside, as you noticed, is the up front cost of the tools.

Ordering Canare connectors and a crimp tool, cable stripper, etc. was a slightly better bargain than purchasing cables already constructed. Add in the hours I spent doing the work for the first 15-20 cables, and it really wasn't a bargain ... initially. Now that I've made in the neighborhood of 30 cables, the 'worth it' scales are tipping in my favor. The more cables one makes, the more the tool costs are offset and the greater the bargain.

Need only a few cables? Not good with tools? Not a careful, detail person with little patience? Likely better to buy pre-made. But if you're up to the task and you're going to upgrade just about every interconnect you've got between 10 pieces of gear - if you've got the time to learn and construct, you'll come out ahead.

AvFan.

Yes I use the Steren Tool, it's very easy to use and cost approx. $45. The neat thing about making your own cables is you get the length needed and makes dressing you cable run much easier, plus RG 59 is more flexible than most good factory interconnects. The Canare conn/tool process is probably better if your cables are in a high stress or tension environment. However, every interconnect I have in my system, 990, 755, 2 M200, 2 subs, 2 dvd and F-conn on eight feeds from directv are of the compression type some in service for many years without a single connector problem.

Paratrooper,

Thanks for the info. I'm just putting the finishing touches on a cherry cabinet I built for my HT equipment and I want the cables organized and commercial cables all seem the wrong length. I'll end up with a mess if I don't look out. I'm intrigued with DIY cables so I can make my install neat and clean.

Besides analog audio are you using PermaSeal RCA connectors and RG59 for digital audio, composite video, and component video?

After looking at some cable sites it looks like it is a big deal to have the connector and the cable at the same impedance (e.g 75 ohms). Is that correct?

That is correct - insuring 75 ohm is important for coaxial digital audio, composite video, and component video.

Thanks, Gonk. It looks like RG59 is 75 ohm and I'll have to check with each manufacturer to see if their connector is at 75 ohms as well. PermaSeal and Impact Acoustics (available from Cables To Go) don't list the impedance of their connectors. Canare's connectors are 75 ohm but I'm not sure I'll make enough custom length cable to save an initial investment in Canare tools.

Bestbang: Thanks for the thoughts. I'm pretty handy so I don't think it would be a long learning curve on how to make the cables. It is partly about aesthetics too. I spent too many hours on the new cabinet to have a bunch of sloppy cables between components detract from the overall look.

I'll post my results when I've finished my research. Thanks to all for your input and help.

AvFan, Cablesforless.com has PermaSeal connectors and specs them as "True 75ohm impedance matching". They also have the Steren compression tool for as low a price as I have seen. Not the best selection of cable though. I'm still curious if anyone has used PermaSeal connectors.

If you're looking for a compression connector solution, I've used Digicon's permaseal connectors and they work well. Avoid Monster Cable's Quicklock connectors; You have to shell out $75 for a compression tool big enough to accept the connector, and the barrels are wider than the ring, making installation a pain.

Brad225.

I use PermaSeal connectors on all of my interconnects,analog and digital,never had a problem. The Steren tool works great. A good stripper is also needed.

When I ran wire for new subs I used RG-6 I had form running satellite cables. This is standard solid copper center with aluminum braid purchased in a spool from Home Depot. Should I have used a cable with copper braid? I have seen conflicting information on this subject. Is standard coax for higher frequency signal than audio?

Brad225,

Thanks for the info on CablesForLess. So far they are the least expensive I have found for the PermaSeal connectors and Steren tool. They also have the connectors in six different colors. I can't answer your question above directly, however as I have researched DIY cables the higher end cables (e.g. Canare) use RG59 with a bare copper center conductor and bare copper braid. I'm curious too if the aluminum braid coax makes a difference for analog audio, digital audio, and both component and composite video.

Try www.totalsignal.com

They have HDMI DVI HDMI-DVI cables or adapters, coax , RCAs. Good prices. Good products.

Yup, there's also monoprice.com. Audio/video cabling is an industry rife with astronomical markups with little scientific data (if any) but lots of marketing speak to back up claims of "better audio" or "better video".

Having been to and having helped build a number of recording studios, I find it laughable that people on the last leg of the journey to the ear are spending 10-1000 TIMES the cost of the patch cabling in even the best recording studios.

This isn't a judgement for or against Outlaw cabling. You can see from my .sig that I'm using some of their cabling. It's of good quality.

Best regards,

It has been great to see so many folks weigh in and provide input on my search to build quality cables that are the correct length and not spend an arm and a leg. I plan on using the PermaSeal connectors but I need to choose between two types of cables.

For those of you using RG59 and PermaSeal connectors does the center conductor of the RG59 need to be solid or can it be stranded? The reason I ask is that Belden makes a stranded RG59, #1505f, that is more flexible than the RG59 1505a cable which has a solid conductor.

Thanks again for all your help!

AvFan,

I use solid center conductor RG59. Stranded did not work well with compression connectors.

If you use stranded, make sure you get the proper connectors. There are different types for solid and stranded.

I have purchased Permaseal RG59 RCA connectors and the Steren tool from Cables For Less and Belden RG59 #1505A (with a solid center conductor) from Westlake Electronics. Westlake had reasonable prices for colored cables that matched the colored bands on the Permaseal connectors.

Thanks to all that contributed info during my search. I will post my impressions of the process after I have made a few cables.

Custom cabling is wonderful if you've got the time, patience and proper equipment. It makes things so much less cluttered in the back. The Belden cable should make a nice interconnect.

Cheers,

My supplies should arrive tomorrow and I expect to make a few cables this weekend. I have a question regarding cable stripping of those that have used the PermaSeal 75 ohm RCA connectors. The Steren site says the cable preparation is "1/4" - 1/4" ". Does that mean that 1/4" of the center conductor is exposed along with 1/4" of the outer braid? Thanks!

That's correct, AvFan. You can use one of these cable strippers from RatShack, and adjust it to do both jobs at once. Very handy if you don't already have one.

Thanks, Sluggo! The Steren (PermaSeal) site was not real helpful defining the way the cable was to be stripped. I picked up the RS stripper today in anticipation of my supplies arriving tomorrow. I'll post my results after make a few cables this weekend.

not to sell the thread, but is r59 cable directional or is that a marketing ploy ,because I just bought some sub cables from cables for less, they are belden 1505f with the canare ends, very nice cables and a 35 foot and 50 foot together cost less than one monster bass 300 I replaced.

Non-directional.

All those using PermaSeal I connectors:

Please see my most recent post regarding how the RG59 is to be stripped for the PermaSeal I connectors. Is the braid left on the white inner insulation of the RG59? I left the braid on and it was fairly difficult to push the cable on to the barrel within the connector. I suspect that the braid was getting mangled as I pushed the cable on the barrel within the connector. It would seem that if the braid was removed it would be easier to slide the cable on the barrel within the connector. The braid would be in contact with inner barrel for the portion of the unstripped cable within the connector. However, I'm not sure removing the braid would provide the necessary connection. How have you done it? Thanks again!

AvFan - You do need to leave the braid on, and don't remove it. Otherwise, the inner barrel could just be pushing the unexposed braid further back. I typically fold the braid over the outer jacket before pushing the connector on, it makes it easier to push the connector on in my experience.

I trim it and "fold it back over" as well.

Cheers,

Fellow PermaSeal Users,

I made over twenty custom length and colored cables today using PermaSeal I connectors and Belden 1505A RG59 coaxial cable. While the process takes some time, boy was it worth it. The "spaghetti" behind my cabinet is gone and has been replaced with organized cable runs between my components. Thanks again to everyone that helped me get this all figured out. I learned some things along the way that I'd like to share.

1. The Belden 1505A cable I used had a foil shield under the braid and it must be removed before sliding the cable into the connector. So fold the braid back and strip the foil. If you don't you run the risk of the foil making an electrical connection between the pin and the remainder of the connector. As you might guess I had a bad cable because of this. Thanks to Sluggo and Ritz for the recommendation to fold back the braid; that's how I found the foil.

2. Check continuity between the pins, outside barrel of the connectors and between a pin and the barrel before using the crimper to make sure a spare piece of braid did not make a connection between the pin and the rest of the connector. You can fix it versus throwing the cable away. I also checked the continuity after crimping.

3. Make sure the exposed solid center conductor is straight, e.g no little kinks. It makes it a lot easier to fully insert the cable in the connector.

4. The RS stripper Sluggo recommended worked great. It was already set up for 1/4" - 1/4" stripping so all I had to do was adjust the blade depth.

5. Cablesforless.com (Connectors and Steren tool) and Westlake Electronic Supply (colored Belden coax) had reasonable prices and prompt shipping. Thanks, Brad225 for recommending Cablesforless.

I have a few more cables to make to connect a VCR and double up on digital audio (Coax and optical) between my DVD and the 990. I'm going to set one of the DVD's digital outputs for CD music only.

All-in-all the process of making my own cables was very satisfying. Again, thanks to those on this forum for pitching in!

Glad it all worked out! 8-)

It's been a while since I made my cabling, you reminded me of that blasted foil. Thanks for sharing some good wisdom, and I'm glad to hear it turned out well for you.

I am wondering what the best choice for in wall Coax for RCA Inter-connects is? This post talks alot about RG-59 because it's more flexible, but isn't RG-6 better for Signal loss? Thanks for the help.

scribner,

I don't have the background to compare RG59 to RG6 but when I had a in-wall coax custom made for a subwoofer (before I learned how to make my own) by a local electronics company they used RG59. The run with all the bends is about 20' and I've not had any problems. I'm sure RG6 would work too. I would use a quality cable from Canare or Belden (versus generic cable from Home Depot) and good connectors from Canare or Steren. I recall an ealier post that used RG6 terminated with an F connector and then a F to RCA adapter was used to connect a sub. Hope this helps.

I realize I'm reviving an old thread here... but hopefully it will catch on again. This is a great discussion and a bit more rational than some over at the cable asylum.

I make almost all of my own cables, even fiber. Being a network engineer in a former life, polishing fiber come second nature and it's pretty easy once you get the hang of it. I'll have to admit I have been giving a hard look to both the Monoprice fancy metal connector optical and the Outlaw PDO. I placed an order for the monprice and will check it out in a few days.

Here's the rest of my setups:
Component Video:
Canare V3-5C with Canare RCAs

Subwoofer:
1x Belden 1694a with Canare RCAs
2x Canare LV-77s with Canare RCAs

Analog audio:
Decent mix of things, all DIY

Digital audio
Canare LV-77s with Canare RCAs

Speaker cables:
MIT T2s mains & center
AudioQuest in-wall rear surrounds
I made a few sets of DIY Cat5 terminated in MIT ICONN ends, but never found them "right" in my system and sold them off.

Digital satellite (throughout house)
Belden 1694a with either Canare FP-C53a F-connectors (pricey but very good) or F-conn FS6U connectors (best compression-type fittings i've ever used)

openhelix,

Thanks for sharing all your various cables. I enjoyed making my own rca cables though I certainly never advanced to do fiber. I have the Outlaw balanced cables between my 990 and ATI amp and I considered making my own balanced cables but never got around to it. I considered the Canare rca connectors but I couldn't find a good enough deal on the tool and dies to make it worth it. The Steren tool and connectors meet my needs at a lower price, but those Canares look sharp!

I just bought an OPPO 980H and I may need to redo some of analog rca cables used for DVD-A and SACD. Video will now be via HDMI (Monoprice) versus component to a new Pioneer 50" plasma (arrives Wednesday!)

Many folks like Outlaw cables (me included) and many others use Bluejean cables but I've never purchased anything from them. I was more interested in getting custom lengths and reducing the tangle behind my component cabinet.

AVFan,

No problem. It's a hobby for me. At bluejeans prices I can hardly buy all the supplies for their prices, but I enjoy it and as you mentioned I can get the exact length I want. I bought the Paladin tool and die set when I was completely redoing my main theater room and a buddy was redoing his. I offered to make all the cables for both if he bought all the supplies for both, about 30-40 RCA and F cables. For almost all of them I used techflex sleeving and shrink tubing instead of the canare boots, but those look nice as well. I just liked the texture of the techflex.

I rarely do any fiber polishing, it's really time consuming and finding toslink connectors is a PITA, but it's fun once in awhile.

Congrats on the new Pioneer! My main room has a 50" Pioneer elite (only 720p/1080i) and I LOVE it! Upstairs just got a 1080P Panasonic plasma.

I have plenty of "extra" canare analog cables in various lengths. If you want to try out set, lemme know. I'm just up in norcal so even via USPS they should reach you in just a day maybe 2.