I’ve been using the HDS-12 for about 6 days. I have a Directv HD DVR receiver (HR21-100) and Panasonic TCP65GT30 tv hooked up to an Onkyo TXNR709. I’m using only HDMI cable between the three. My speakers are Emotiva ERM6.3 for my L/C/R, Emotiva ERD-1 surrounds and Monoprice in-ceilings for the rear. Cheap Polk sub (for now), can’t remember the model.

The tv and receiver are only about 6 weeks old and ever since I set it up I was having audio drop-outs several times and hour. The drops out happened on all HD channels I watched, and lasted from 1-3 seconds. I was fairly certain the drop-outs were caused by a handshake issue between the Onkyo and HD receiver. Before I bought the Onkyo (sometime in mid November) I had it hooked up to a cheap Pioneer receiver and never had any drop-out issues. Since getting the new setup, we’ve watched about 6 movies, both blu-ray (Panasonic BDT110) and DVD, and have never had an audio drop-out while watching movies. Plus, when searching online for the issue, I found this to be a common problem on various forums with Directv receivers. So, again, I was certain it was an issue between the receivers. Onkyo customer support had no idea what to do and just said to reset the receiver. I did, it didn’t help.

Getting back to the HDS-12. I hooked it up last Friday between my DVR receiver and the Onkyo and, although it has not completely eliminated the issue, it has lessened the occurrence substantially. In fact, if I wasn’t aware of the problem, I probably wouldn’t even notice there was a problem. Over the weekend I watched a lot of tv, mostly sports. I watched more tv in 2 days than I normally watch in a week! Although I didn’t keep track, I only had a handful of drop-outs over the entire weekend.

I’m going to do more testing over the next week or so, removing the device for a couple days and counting the number of drop-outs and I’ll report back. So far I think the HDS-12 is working very well for me.

@pfraser...Hope you don't mind if I piggyback my report onto yours RE: HDS-12- thanks.

I'm pleased to participate in Outlaw's beta test of an HDMI product labeled Transformative Engineering TE HDS-12, 2 port splitter.

I'll say right up front that I have been an “outlaw” since the beginning and I am currently using the Model 990 preamp-processor along with the Model 770 7-channel amp for home theater center & surround duty.
Like many homeowner's, my system is expected to do double duty for critical music listening and for robust home theater. I primarily listen to music in analog stereo using the shortest possible pathway- player to other mono-block amps to speakers, bypassing the Outlaw 990 and 770. My music pathway is separate and I don't power on the Outlaw pre-pro or multi-channel amp for stereo music playback. See audio notes & commentary (2nd post) later for more explanation. My home theater setup however, is a 7.2 system using the Outlaw gear and of course I light 'em all up for a full movie soundtrack experience primarily via the analog inputs & outputs.

As a beta tester, I represent the long HDMI run (10 meter) from source to projector group.
I'm not asking much from HDMI, video signal transfer only from source to projector. The audio signal for movies or SACDs is handled as 5 or 7 channel analog out to the Model 990. Since my newer Oppo players have newer/better chip sets, I let them do the audio processing and use the “7.1 bypass” setting on the Outlaw 990. Most of you know that the Outlaw Model 990 does NOT have any HDMI connections, as Outlaw opted to use DVI connections. So it is not only a preference, but a necessity to separate audio and video pathways from any source's HDMI output into the Outlaw Model 990. My older Sony projector used a proprietary 10 meter Sony cable combining component video with S-video. When I bought my new Sony Bravia VPL HW15, I removed the Sony cable and pulled a Monster Cable 10 meter “HDMI 400” cable and used a DVI/HDMI adapter on the Outlaw 990's output. When I got the Oppo BDP-83, I bypassed the 990 and hooked the HDMI cable directly to the Oppo's HDMI output. As I upgraded to the Oppo BDP-95 in 2011, I kept this same direct connection.

However, my recent experience with HDMI video handshake error was approaching 20%, that's right, nearly 1 out of 5 times when I powered up, a mono-colored screen (usually red, sometimes yellow) would show and I would have to either physically unplug and replug the HDMI cable at the projector to trigger a new search/connection, or change the input on the projector menu and recapture it that way! It used to happen 1 out of 50, then about 1 out of 20 times and now 1 out of 5. This indicates the problems with HDMI are actually increasing over time for me, even as I add new gear to my system. It only happens with Blu-ray discs, not standard DVDs (or the older HD-DVDs which I still have and use via a direct HDMI cable connection to the projector.)


Let's get right to it. After opening the box, I found an attractive, small, very lightweight, shiny black box of about 3 inches square and just a bit less than 1 inch thick. The HDMI input comes in at the top and the box splits to 2 HDMI outputs, one to each side, and the power cord attaches at the bottom of the unit. The “wall wart” adapter is a slim rectangle that politely only takes up the space of 1plug/outlet. My first thought for the engineering or marketing folks is that the “4 cables on 4 sides” arrangement actually has the (very light weight) box floating in the air like a spider with wires in all four directions. My suggestion would be to present this product as an in-line device and have the input at the top and both outputs at the bottom with the power cord at the side to allow for a “better” cable run IMHO.

Specific to the project at hand (does it work??), my digital source is Oppo's BDP-95 universal player, which I normally connect directly to my Sony Bravia VPL HW15 SXRD projector via a 10 meter “HDMI 400” cable from Monster Cables. However, in order to incorporate the HDMI beta test HDS-12 unit, I used an Audioquest (HDMI-X with 1.25% silver) 1 meter cable from my Oppo BDP-95 to the beta test unit and then the long 10 meter run of Monster Cable's HDMI 400 cable to the projector.

Since 99% of my “handshake error” occurs at power up and ONLY with Blu-ray discs, I concentrated my testing in that phase. Because the projector has the longest power up time, I always turn it on first and then go to the rest of the system and power up the player, pre-pro and amps. For testing purposes, I also varied this routine with the beta unit in use. I disconnected and re-connected the HDMI cable while viewing. I stopped the player and turned it off while the projector was still running and then re-started the player. Conversely, I stopped the projector and powered it down, then re-started it after a long time interval and watched it re-capture the ongoing HDMI signal. As of day 6 of beta testing, the unit has not dropped a single HDMI connection yet. It has been plugged in the whole time and the unit has only the slightest warmth to show signs of life (along with the light) and I do not expect a problem with over-heating.
The picture quality is at least at my reference level baseline. There have been no signs of video noise, artifact, or interference at all.

I will continue to beta test the TE HDS-12 HDMI splitter in my set up and keep you informed. Are there any specific tests or situations that you would like me to simulate, based on other beta tester's input?

KJMAN

A big part of the fun of being involved in a beta test project like this is to share the love of the A/V hobby with other enthusiasts. We all have different challenges and take different routes and use different gear to reach our audio/video goals. I'm in my mid-50's and have been a “serious” enthusiast for about 25 years. I tend to spend about 60% of my time and budget on music listening and 40% on movies. So let's have some fun and please feel free to comment on my setup and make any positive (or negative) suggestions that you feel like and share some of your experiences as well.
I do have a dedicated music and theater room- 15x15 floor with 10 foot high ceiling and sound treatment as needed. I also have a dedicated 20 amp circuit, a PS Audio Power Port hospital grade outlet and a Furman Elite-15 PFi linear filter AC power conditioner. I chose the Furman because it seemed to combine some of the best ideas from PS Audio with some of the best ideas from Richard Gray's Power Station, but at a competitive price. It has been flawless over the past 4 years of use. Outside, I did just sand the ground connectors and copper rods x2 for the house and they look like a new penny. I also dug around the ground rods and put about a cupful of salt into the soil to improve conduction. Voodoo or true?? I like to think it helps, but not as much as using balanced interconnects to my ear.
As noted in the other article, I have an Outlaw Model 990 pre-pro and combine it with the Outlaw Model 770 7-channel amp for center & surround duty. However, because I primarily appreciate music in stereo, I had used Outlaw's remarkable Model 2200 mono-blocks for right & left mains. I say “remarkable” because my main speakers are Magnepan 3.6's on Mye stands and the cost-effective (!) Model 2200's never shut down or complained of the workload even after hours or days of music and/or home theater explosions! They may not have been the “best” amps on the market, but I never caught them doing anything “wrong” with the sound...truly an amazing product for the price.
As an A/V enthusiast, I get about 4 magazines a month now and one can't help but get curious about other gear. I had read a review about Musical Fidelity's Supercharger 550 mono-block amps, which take any other amps output and “supercharge” it to a robust output of 550 watts into an 8 ohm load. I know my Maggie's are demanding, so when the price dropped, I got a pair of the MF's. They worked exactly as advertised taking the Outlaw 2200's speaker output into the MF's and then via speaker outputs on to the Magnepan 3.6's. VERY dynamic and detailed presentation without any coloration of the Outlaw's sound per se. I also hooked up a Jolida integrated 25 watt amp and the MF's can supercharge them and yet retain the tube warmth and sweetness while making the Maggies sing. Great fun with an interesting product! This whole time I was using the Oppo BDP-83 universal player as my source and life was good. However, when the Oppo BDP-95 came out I quickly ordered one. I hooked it up and was dismayed to find that it would NOT power on my Outlaw 2200 mono-blocks. The disc would play, but only silence and no triggering “on” of my 2200's! I sent it back as defective, but a month later the replacement failed in the exact same manner. I emailed Oppo and they were a bit chilly about the whole thing, saying “that functionality is not guaranteed”. After another email exchange, an engineer answered my question by noting that the BDP-83 had a 2.5 voltage output, but the new Oppo BDP-95 had less than 1.8. There was no solution, as I failed to get the 12 volt hardwire trigger option to turn on the Outlaw 2200 either!
The reason all of this was so important to me was that I strongly prefer the balanced interconnects that the BDP-95 and the Outlaw 2200's have. I am on a hillside overlooking the city and I am prone to RF problems, even to the point of hearing AM radio talk shows coming in over my Maggies! The balanced interconnects eliminated that and gave me a 4-6 db boost in dynamic response as well.
Meanwhile, I am looking on Audiogon for a replacement that would always trigger or turn on and I fell in love with the Krell S300i. I had owned Krell's HTS pre-pro and had the KAV-1500 5-channel amp back in 2000 and loved them. My hope was that the Krell S300i could possibly drive the Magnepan 3.6's by itself and I could enjoy a minimal pathway. Turns out the Musical Fidelity amps have an audible “clicking” or “switching” sound that required them to be behind my audio wall, so I wanted to eliminate them if possible.

The Krell S300i arrived from an honest seller via Paypal and Audiogon...whew. I turned them on for a burn in period, but just 3 hours into it during some Stanley Clarke “East River Drive” killer bass jazz, they shut down! The thermal protection had kicked in! These are not the former Krell high-end workhorses of years gone by, in spite of the reviews and the advertising. Turns out the S300i is the first Krell product “made in China” and after that thermal shutdown, I hooked them back up to the Musical Fidelity Superchargers and then and only then, they could make the Maggies sing! I'm very sorry to say the Krell S300i is now awaiting service from yet another shut down from which it could not recover. The power switch pops out and it just won't power up anymore. I emailed Krell and they quickly informed me that this Krell unit is not under warranty, even though it was brand new and in original packing. Know why?? Audiogon is not a licensed dealer of Krell therefore, I'm just not covered and I'll have to pay the $120 an hour plus shipping to see what needs fixing! Ouch.
So right now, the Jolida integrated 25 watt amp is back in line and the MF's are doing a fine job of “supercharging” the output for the Maggies. I will probably get the Krell fixed, but the sound right now is very good.
Lets do some more name dropping. I use the Shunyata Venom 3 AC cord to power the Oppo BDP-95 and it was actually a noticeable change/improvement over the factory cord. I've always loved the sound of Kimber cables ever since the PBJ days. I was using Kimber Hero balanced interconnects until the Krell died. I now have Analysis Plus Ones as RCA interconnects to the Jolida and they are fine for unbalanced. I use Kimber 4 TC as the speaker out cable from the Jolida into the Musical Fidelity Supercharger and then I use Apature's solid core silver bi-wired cables to the Maggies. To be honest, I alternate the Apature silver with Paul Speltz's bright red copper “anti-cables”, also bi-wired. The first time I put them in line and listened, I actually started laughing, simply because the sound field was so open and airy and bright (in a good way) that I was startled! I trade them out about every 6 months just to keep things fresh and to keep me listening closely. I enjoy both and want them each to have a turn-ha.
I have to say that one of the biggest improvements in my system was the addition of the Mye stands for the Magnepan 3.6's. The dynamic range just extended and oh my...the bass finally made me believe that the 3.6 is, or can be truly “full range”. I don't use any subwoofer at all now that the 3.6's are on the Mye stands. Turns out these solid, kinda spendy, speaker stands are well worth the time and money to get all the way from Canada to my music room.
As for multi-channel music, I do have a small collection of DVD-As and SACDs. I run a 7.2 system with all Magnepan speakers. My sub woofers are the James MB-1000, which Robert Harley reviewed and found the design to be very fast, which makes it a good match for the Maggies. My other sub woofer is the Outlaw Model LFM-1 Plus. This “end-table” powered sub just puts the solid rock in the foundation. Oh my....I run them at about 10% and still get the full explosion/flyby effect!
I use a Stewart Filmscreen StudioTek 130 92” screen and my current projector is a Sony Bravia VPL HW15 which utilizes their SXRD technology. I had been an early adopter and had paid 12k for the Sharp Z9000 DLP projector and it had a wow factor that only now has been matched by the black levels of this Sony...and the price? $2500! Some things do get better and cheaper, just not the Krell in my experience!
A final, lighter note. I have had many great hours of fun with friends and family in the Hoffman Home Theater, so I finally designed and ordered 50 T-shirts that say “been there” on the front and “Hoffman Home Theater” on a marquee on the back. I gave the last one away this Christmas as a stocking stuffer and I can say they are in at least 4 states although I can't say that anyone actually wears them in public!

What a great hobby this is. I just love it in spite of the cost and frustration at times. The end does justify the “means” required to keep it all going. Thanks, enjoy and comment as you like. KJMAN

What an inspiring piece of equipment the HDS-12 appears to be.

Very nicely said...I haven't posted before and I know page 2 belongs "somewhere else". Did you get to the part about Maggies and Mye stands? A bit of a process but it did make a big difference....as has the HDS-12... K

I did read about the MYE stands. A little pricey for me but they do look better than other I have seen. I have some steel shot bags on the standard legs on my 1.6s just to stabilize them some. Their aspect ratio always leads me to believe they are will fall over some day. They are much more stable with the extra weight on the bottom but they probably flex somewhat near the top.

For the record, your post is very interesting and gives us a good look at your system and experiences with a lot of equipment. Keep up the posts.

What Maggies make up your 7.2 system? I have thought about an all Maggie 5.2 system. The 7500 needs a work out.

Along with the mains, which I now call "3.6 and a halfs", because of the Mye stand difference and my reluctance to pay for the 3.7's....my center is the MGCC3 and the surrounds are their MGMC1 (x4). The MGMC1's at the sides are mounted vetically and the ones behind the listening position are mounted horizontally. The effect of 7.2 is good, but there still is not enough source material. I also feel that good 5.1 gets at least 90% of the experience that 7.1 provides.

After 3 years of "aggresive" use, my MGCC3 center has blown a tweeter and it has been replaced with a BIC horn tweeter center speaker from a cyber monday sale. It is fast enough to match the Maggie's well enough until I can decide if I can afford to repair or replace the MGCC3, which is about a grand...ouch.

The Mye stand difference was profound for me, but I also balked at the price and hassle for a couple years.

I was thinking about a set of MMGs and a MMGC to go with my 1.6s. For less than a $1000 for all three I don't think it can be beat but I need a larger room.

How is this beta coming along? When will I be able to buy one of these things?