Hi everyone,

Well, it's been bad timing on my AR subwoofer. Bad phase switch or something and I have to continuously wiggle it to have the speaker kick in.
I'm interested in the LFM 1ex but I'm waiting hopefully for a sale.
From past history, can anyone tell me if there are certain times that this sub seems to be on sale? I am on the mailing list but would like to get some idea if anyone might think there will be a promotion anytime soon?

Thanks everyone.

Why not just replace the switch for the time being? The Outlaws have sub sales a couple of times per year and we may be coming up on another one before summer.

Thanks for the info.
I would replace the switch but don't want to attempt myself.

It would probably be worth it (if that is in fact the problem) It's intermittent so I can deal with it for now and save the money for a new sub. I'll wait for the promotion.

It could just be a loose wire. If you remove the amp plate from the back of the sub you may be able to determine the issue. Sometimes the switches are held on with a bezzle ring and when it gets loose the switch contacts something it shouldn't. It is a pretty easy exploratory surgery if you want to tackle it.

I will explore further. I do know that when I flip the switch up and down, I will hear a slight pop but it takes a few times to get the subwoofer to engage. If the switch is bad and is only 2 wires connected to the circuit board, I would definitely consider replacing. The sub still sounds fine and if I do get the LFM, there is no reason I still can't use both if I fix this one.

Thanks,

Dave

Many switches are made to be self cleaning and when they don't get cycled often they develop some resistance. With the sub OFF cycle the switch 50 times or so and see if that helps.

Be careful with that. If it's the sub that's giving you the little popping noises then it's possible you have an intermittent problem with the switch that a few cycles will clear out.

However, if it's the switch itself that is giving you little electrical noise pops then the switch may be arcing out in which case more cycles will just kill it quicker. Put your nose close to the switch and see if you smell any electrical burning type smells. If you do then it's time to replace the switch.

Well so far, the sub has worked. I haven't touched the switch. This is after I took the panel off. The switch is soldered directly to the board so nothing is loose.
However I did seem to notice like something looked to be oozing brown at one time from a capacitor or something on the board. Not sure how long it's been like that and I'm not sure that the switch has anything to do with it since they're in different areas.
If it stops working, I will try cycling the switch to see if it makes a difference. For the time being I'll be patient, hope the sub keeps working and hope for a sale on the outlaw.

Thanks guys.

Find a electronics repair person and have the cap replaced and the board cleaned up. I had new output cables put on my Technics TT for $25 last fall by a guy I found through word of mouth in NC. You can look someone up online in the phonebook and get it fixed right.

In case the OP is set up to receive email notifications of thread updates ... the LFM-1EX is on sale plus free S&H this week.