For that "abuse" thing, I was just kidding. My amp never ran "hot"; it is just a little "warm" actually. If I only connect 1 speaker per channel, my amp cold like ice. Speaking honestly, it is totaly safe doing it this way. As long as the resulting load impedance you connect on each channel is 2 ohms or higher and you don't run the amp into clipping. But, if you're not that experienced with sound systems yet or feel insecure doing it this way, you're better off for now just connecting one speaker per channel.



[This message has been edited by theendofday (edited May 24, 2004).]

You can also use this method to duplicate your subwoofer channel. Just make sure you use 8 ohm sub so it is easier on the amp.

>>>As long as the resulting load impedance you connect on each channel is 2 ohms or higher.....<<<<

That's what I was warning against. Almost no home theater amplifiers made today are safe to run with a 2 ohm load - most can do 4 ohms, barely, and many of them have switches that lower the rail voltages for this impedance. This was not the case before home theater came into being when amps could sometimes tolerate loads as low as 1 ohm - but that was then, and this is now.

That's what I was saying too. You have to know your equipment. It's dangerous to just go hooking things up with no idea of its capability. Just going by heat is not a great idea either. Some amps naturally run hotter than others and work just fine. This flying by the seat of the pants method is going to end up costing someone a lot of money.

If for some strange reason you absolutely must run an ultra-low load (2 ohms or less) then you might want to check out a used amp from NAD. I say used because i) I have a few of their older models and I know them to be designed to handle those loads and ii) you can buy them cheap - in case you fry one of them .

However something like the NAD 2200 is pretty much bulletproof. The manufacturer actually rates it down to 2 ohms (800 W/ch dynamic power). Old reviews talk of taking it down to 1 ohm. In all extreme cases its protection circuits will kick in well before anything untowards happens.

As I said, if you must drive a very low impedence load, that's what I'd recommned.

Jeff Mackwood

since most subs are powered these days, yeah you can split the analog out to two different ones. but that isnt what you said, but then again what you said isnt sensible either. i dont mean to be offensive, but it sounds like you dont know what you are talking about.

I was talking about using external amplifier to drive unpowered subwoofer that kind of set up. Why must everyone uses active subs and built in Xovers? You can use a 7 channel amplifier to drive seven 8 ohm unpowered subwoofers. Then, by using this method, add 1 more 8 ohm unpowered subwoofer per channel to form a 4 ohm load on the amp for total 14 subs.



[This message has been edited by theendofday (edited May 25, 2004).]

most subs are powered. who has extra amps for subwoofer use? two reasons why. if i wanted 14 speakers (not 14 subs like you posted in that last line), i would use a distribution amp and not my MUCH MORE EXPENSIVE power amp.

Surely you cannot mean this - what do you mean by "distribution amp"? I think you have your nomenclature seriously mixed up.

Passive subwoofers are actually very common and are what I use. Professional installations are more likely to have passive subwoofers than not, although active subs are more common in the consumer marketplace.

I use a combination of three different types. Passive driven by a dedicated amp/controller, Semi passive with built in plate amp but external active sub controller and then the typical active. I prefer the external amplification and controller.