The manual that came with my 1050 was pretty light on how programable the remote really is. Here is a list of web-sites that are dedicated to programming the "Radio Shack 15-1994" remote which is usually priced at $40. The 1050 remote is clearly a descendent of the 15-1994, I have had zero problems in reprogramming specific keys for undocumented devices like my Apex CD player. I haven't hooked up the serial port that is in the battery compartment yet, but it looks like it should work.

I'd appreciate it if the outlaws could post any 'unofficial' information they have on programming the remote too.


(stolen from:http://www.dvdtalk.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=113770)

more info on the 15-1994 radio shack remote:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/ofa/index.shtml
http://websink.com/1994/disc1_welc.htm

complete programming manual for the 15-1994:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/ofa/manuals/rs-l.shtml?15-1994

offline version of the manual:
http://www.shoutingman.com/interests/ht/15-1994-remote.zip

diagram of the 15-1994 remote in pdf format to help you keep track of your newly programmed buttons:
http://www.shoutingman.com/interests/ht/15-1994.pdf

how to build an interface between your 15-1994 remote and your pc so you can completely reprogram your remote:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/hack/index2.shtml
http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/index.shtml

some links to user reviews of the 15-1994 radio shack remote:
http://www.cheaphometheater.com/15-1994%20remote.htm
http://www.remotecentral.com/ureview/19.htm
http://www.audioreview.com/reviews/Remote/product_69391.shtml

Hear! Hear! (Scott, do YOU hear? :-)) The Outlaws can really help with the remote in several ways: (a) publish a list of all advanced codes sent by the remote or even better a list of all advanced codes recognized by the receiver, in particular discrete equivalents (b) create a forum about remotes (c) tell us quietly :-) a part number/source for the 6-pin connector ...

-- Ham

I saw the post about the connector and decided to look into it. First off, I thought the remote was produced by the same guys that did the One-For-All remotes, but I could be mistaken. If anybody has more reliable info, go with that, as it was just an opinion from the manufacturing. . .

Anyway, I looked at the pins, noted that they looked identical to computer jumper connections. The text in the board below that 'JP1' is common nomenclature for 'jumper number 1' found on motherboards etc. I would be suspect as to whether or not this is a place to put a connector or not. But again, this is my conservative opinion and if one of the referenced web pages clearly explains this, then I would disregard my opinion.

On to the good stuff:

www.digikey.com is a supplier of just about everything needed for electrical projects. I referenced the June 1999 catalog and the dimensions of the pins (i.e. .5mm x 2.54mm spacing) and located the correct part numbers from digikey.

Connector (only the plastic piece, requires metal inserts) #WM2520-ND. Package qty 10, price $2.06 for all 10.

Pins (type 'C' I think) #WM2510-ND. I assume these come in packages of 50 or so. Either way, get more than 10 if you have never worked with these tiny little guys, as they sometimes don't crimp correctly. If you don't have the correct crimping tool, carefully use a vise or something similar. They should be under $1.00 for the pack, I'd guess. Note that there are many different material combinations available. I don't think it matters in such a non-critical operation. They may also be available in solder type, I didn't research it that far.

But, check out the web site if you think that's the right way to work with that remote. The search engine is pretty good and they have all the wiring or serial port connectors you could dream of. Word of warning, there is a $5.00 handling charge for orders under $25.00, so you might want to just order some fun stuff to play with as well. I am skeptical as to the application with the remote, but you guys know more about it than me. I chose the Pronto route and haven't looked back.

S.

PS: I'm not stepping on any toes with this post, am I???

Here's how to adjust the volume on the 1050 no matter what device mode is selected:
Volume Punch Through

1.PRESS the device, (TV, VCR, SAT, etc.), button - RELEASE
2.PRESS and HOLD the SETUP button until the red LED flashes twice, then RELEASE.
3.PRESS 9 - 9 - 3.
4.PRESS the TNR button.
5.Two blinks.

Here's how to change the TV channels while you are in SAT mode. (If you have set your SAT input to come in through the video port on your TV)I did this because my SAT dish is set-up through the video1 mode on the TV & the on-air network channels are coming in through an antenna. Now I can surf from SAT mode & check whats on the on-air channels without changing device modes.

1.Press SETUP and hold down until the LED blinks twice
2.Press 9 9 4 (the LED will blink twice)
3.Press TV and CH+ and SAT and CH+ (the LED will blink twice)
4.Press SETUP and hold down until the LED blinks twice
5.Press 9 9 4 (the LED will blink twice)
6.Press TV and CH- and SAT and CH- (the LED will blink twice)
7.Press SETUP and hold down until the LED blinks twice
8.Press 9 9 4 (the LED will blink twice)
9.Press TV and INPUT and SAT and INPUT (the LED will blink twice)

Jack

I don't have the link, but on www.remotecentral.com there is a post with about 10 pages of information on the remote. From advanced codes, to the simple things. Just do a search for it on there, and you will find the info.

------------------
Jeff Blair

WooHoo I'm getting married. There goes my upgraideites.

I've been trying to program the 1050 remote with the 15-1994 manual, but have and no success. I would really like to program some macros into it. (So, the wifey can press one button to play a DVD).
Has anyone had any experience with this? Are there only certain buttons on the 1050 remote which will store macros? Thanks in advance.

Thanks jackr! The volume punch through is a godsend. I can't tell you how many times I quickly tried to turn down (or up :-)) my 1050 but had another device selected. This will also greatly please my wife... one less thing to learn with our new home theater!! Thank you, thank you, thank you.

I'm a little red in the face on making what I thought was going to be a great change to my remote. I followed jackr's directions using the 9-9-3 code so that I could get volume control to the 1050 even if the last device button hit was different than the TNR button. I didn't realize that the volume would be controlled by the receiver regardless of the other devices. I thought that I'd need to execute the sequence for each device.

Now I've got a television which we (or at least my wife) normally uses without using the 1050 and she no longer can adjust the volume of the television. (I realize that I can also use the 993 code followed by TV, but then I'd be going back and forth all the time.)

How can I reset my remote back to the way it was before I did the 993 code?

On page 33 of the owner's manual, it describes the "volume locking" feature of the code 9-9-3. It does not, however, provide directions on how to "unlock" the remote so that it goes back to it original state.

I even tried taking the batteries out for a while and that didn't work. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris

I haven't tried this on my 1050 remote, but I'm taking it from the manual for a 15-1994 (which I use in my bedroom for TV and digital cable box -- and eventually a DVD player).

Turning Punch-Through Off

1. Hold down P (the program button for the Outlaw) until the red light blinks twice.

2. Press 9 9 3

3. Press VOL +. The remote controls the volume through the currently selected device.

Hope it helps.

gonk and Owl's Warder;

Thanks for the ideas to try.

I had good news and not so good news (actually almost down right bad).

Good News: Both of the codes that you suggested worked.

Bad News: I should have stopped after I tried gonk's. No offense Owl's Warder.

The 9-8-1 code worked also; too well in fact. It apparently wiped the codes clean for all devices, including for the 1050. I've got my other devices set back up on the remote but I can't find the code to reestablish the remote for the 1050.

Does anyone know how to get the remote set back up to work the 1050?

I guess that I got to serve as a guinea pig on this one.

Yo Scott!! I'm sure that ya'll Outlaws can probably clue me in on this also.

Any help will be appreciated, and guys, I'm serious about offering thanks for your previous ideas.

Chris

I have good news and bad news for you. My son got hold of my remote and performed some random deprogramming. Pretty smart for a one year old. I used 9-8-1 to reset to factory defaults and wound up in the same situation as you. The bad news is that there is no code for the 1050. The good news is that Outlaw will ship you a new remote and a prepaid mailer to send back the old one free of charge. Just contact support and explain your situation.


[This message has been edited by palmer (edited August 29, 2001).]

I feel like such a dumb-ass! In my pursuit of programming my 1050's remote to work with all my devices, I ended up wiping out *all* the programming via the now infamous 9-8-1 manuever. I have sent in an email to support requesting a new remote. A word to the wise to everyone out there...be careful with some of these hacks as you may end up getting more than you bargained for.

Thanks for the news palmer.

Like srayer, I have sent an email in to the folks at Outlaw to get instructions on how to get a replacement.

Who knows, maybe having to get up from my listening / viewing spot to adjust the volume and change setting might even be good for me. My doctor says that I could use some exercise.

These guys at Outlaw are GOOOOD!!

As a follow-up to the demise of my remote:

I sent the email to Outlaw advising them of my situation. I didn't get an email back. Instead, DHL delivered a new remote to my house in 2 days. Unfortunately, it came on Friday and no one was home. I had to wait to get it on the next delivery day of Tuesday (due to Labor Day).

Way to go Outlaws!!

Now I just need to see if they want the old one back.

Chris

I know I'm a little late getting into this thread... What I am hearing is that I might as well take my Sony RM-AV2100 back to where I purchased it. The main reason I bought it was to integrate the control of my diverse systems into one programmable remote and use the macro feature to simplify power on, power off, media switching, etc. Now I hear (as I suspected) that there is no code for the 1050, so I can't even power it on with the Sony remote. Is that correct? Thanks in advance for any help on this, I'm a HT novice.

------------------

There is not a code in the Sony to control the 1050. This doesn't mean your 2100 is useless, though -- I looked at a review of the RM-AV2100 at RemoteCentral.com and the 2100 can learn commands from remotes. It will be a slow process, but you can teach it every button on the 1050's remote (I'm assuming there's enough memory for all of the buttons).

I had to put my two cents in! I have the Sony AV2100 and it didn't take long to program. I just used the default screen for a receiver and made it learn all of the functions. I have had no problems at all.

I've done a little research so here's some new information on the remote control unit used by the Outlaw 1050 (also the Sherwood R-956 and other AV receivers).

The remote unit is manufactured by an OEM supplier called UEI (Universal Electronics, Inc) and the model is a Catalyst 48. It can be viewed at www.uei.com, just click on "OEM", then "Catalyst 48" and you can see an image of the remote but there's no useful info on the site. I've e-mailed UEI requesting info on codes, macros, etc and they are supposed to fax me the instructions for the standard Catalyst 48 that may contain more info than Outlaw's manual but I'm still waiting on that fax.

Hopefully knowing the manufacturer of the remote will help you guys trace down more codes and features, whoever gets the info first can post it here for everyone to use. I'll post anything useful if I receive the fax from UEI. This is actually a fairly decent remote but not knowing all the codes and features doesn't help much.

How did you get your Apex DVD player programmed? I have been unable to find any information about the Apex codes. Thanks!

Check out http://www.hifi-remote.com/ofa/codes.shtml#dvd -- the first entry in the DVD section is for Apex, and lists the code 0030. This page refers to the Radio Shack 15-1994, which is *not* the Outlaw remote but is known to be very similar (codes for things like volume punch-through are the same). This code is for TV's on the 15-1994, but I have found the Outlaw remote to be less finicky than the 15-1994 on what "device" button you assign codes to. If that doesn't work for you, hopefully someone with an Apex player will chime in...

I know this is an old thread, but just in case there's anyone else out there who has zapped their remote, either my using the 981 function, or by pressing some buttons while the batteries are out, you can restore the Outlaw code using JP1.

You can also use JP1 to completely customise the remote, including adding new codes for things like ReplayTV and TiVo, and programming macros, etc.

You can also solder in some extra resistors to make the remote a learning remote!

JP1 info: http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/

Rob.
http://www.hifi-remote.com

Has anyone successfully programmed their 1050 remote using the JP1 hookup to their PC? I'm planning on trying this, I'd like to hear some success stories first, though.
Thanks!

I have programmed my RS 15-1994 through the JP1 cable using the tools in groups.yahoo.com/jp1. I also have the Outlaw remote but I can't use my JP1 cable on it. The plug on the cable just won't reach the socket the way I built the cable. That doesn't mean that it won't work! The six pin connector needs to be a long one.

My remote controls my Outlaw, TV, Sat box, DVD, VCR. I have used different brands of all of the above as I upgrade, and I can switch function keys with ease. I have macros that turn on all devices and switch the inputs on the Outlaw and TV to match. I have an all off macro too. I've also created my own device tables for new products, such as Samsung's Directv receivers. I've also modified the 1050 code table that's on the website to include more functions, and also change the protocol, which was wrong.

Try it for your Outlaw and you'll wonder why everyone wants the touchscreens. The advantage of the button remotes is that you don't have to look down to see what you're pressing, you can do it by feel, at least after a couple of days of using it.

Does anyone have the MX-500 Universal Remote? Any problems with it? I ordered mine yesterday...

The Deep: I have the MX 500 Universal remote and it will be the last remote you will ever need..very nice

I just got my Jp1 -> serial cable in the mail. Hopefully I'll have some quality time to spend with my Outlaw remote this weekend! I have never been so excited about a $17 cable.
Fletch