I am unsure why adding a UPS between an amp and the power grid would add any resistance. That sounds a little far fetched. I'll put it another way: the positive clearly audible effects a UPS has on audio quality are undeniable. How it affects your amp electrically, while measurable as far as impedance or resistance goes, won't hurt your amps.

I would like to add is that yes, the particular large UPS I have is not for everyone. The smaller CyberPower can be gotten as large as 2000 or 2200 VA. It does have a fan but the fan only runs when there is no or too low AC input.

To answer one of the questions by one of the other posters about sizing a UPS for your system, it's pretty straight forward. In the AC voltage world, watts*1.67=VoltAmps(VA). In DC, watts=Volts*Amps. But because AC voltage is a sine wave whose nominal amplitude is represented as RMS Volts you have to use the power factor conversion to go from watts to VA. So to size a UPS for your application you add up all the watts that all your components draw, multiply by 1.67 which gives you VA and pick the appropriate UPS. If want to use smaller multiple UPS units, just make sure your total load does not exceed the max load for the UPS. Most UPS units also tell you what the equivalent watts are so you don't have to calculate it necessarily.

In my case I have a 3000VA unit and a 1500VA unit. That's 2200 and 900 watts respectively. The Outlaw 7125 draws 1440 max so it is too much for the smaller unit IF I am driving all 7. In my case I am only using 5 so it can be on the smaller unit. That's 1029 watts but it's all for surrounds and center. So more than likely I won't be using all of that. My Adcom amp for my subs draws 1000W at full power. Since that is bass it can and more than likely will draw all of that. The Carver amp draws 1000W at full power. It drives my electrostatics so I will probably use all of that too. So I have the 7125 on the smaller unit and everything else on the big one.

Bottom line is that is works great. It sounds awesome. What more could I ask for?

Volt/Amps are Volt/Amps whether on the line side of an UPS or the load side!!! The UPS shouldn't have any effect on the amps hunger for electricity.

An easier way to size a UPS for the home is a 15 amp circuit provides 1800 VA. A 20 amp circuit provides 2400 VA.

In a single phase circuit VA=Watts.
http://www.angelfire.com/pa/baconbacon/page2.html

Adding the UPS to the circuit in the cellar is easier than you would think if you are positive which wire feeds the outlets feeding the stereo.

I ca explain it if you'd like me 2.

Hullguy,

I'd certainly be interested in an explanation.

I checked the power panel and everything is grounded as it should be, all the screws are tight and there are two ground cables that come into the power panel (the one is attached to a rod, driven into the ground, at the other end of the house. Where the other ground cable comes from, I can't tell.

I removed the doorbell transformer from the circuit and no more buzz in the panel. Also, I don't know if it's my imagination, but from my seating area, I can no longer hear my amp.

However, when the compressor was running in my fridge, my amp seemed louder and when it turned off, it was quieter, within the moment! Is this actually possible? Or, is it just my imagination?

Sorry, didn't mean to veer off topic.

I did the math; if I add all my AV components together, max draw is 3,000 watts. I can't imagine coming even close to this kind of draw, however and so how should I judge my requirements? Should I just shoot for the 3,000 watts, which I thought was 30amps?

I like the idea of the UPS, but the professional AV installer insists that the Surge-X is the` thing to have, the way to go. The pricing is comparable. Also, that 70lb UPS is just not happening in my small living room, with two, continuously running, 5” computer fans. If I could keep it in the basement, safely and interconnect, that might be an option, but I can’t see how, without making a lot of holes.

Again, I appreciate the input from everyone here; I thank you all. I’m enjoying this, also, always love to learn new things.

John

I'd throw the circuit off feeding the stereo and see if the fridge light goes out. If it stays on, it's on a different circuit, but it's causing voltage drop! I'd try to move the stereo circuit on to the other phase from the fridge and hope for the best! BTW the UPS would take care of this VD.

DR_JB you've got to go with what you feel is best in this situation. I'm a Master Electrician who likes good AV equipment, not a Pro AV guy. He has more resources and deals with this kind of thing more often than I do.
If this works, maybe your guy can come to the TD Banknorth Garden and figure out where our data noise on our headset circuit is coming from!
Jim

Jim,

You’ve been really helpful, as I'm certainly not a Master Electrician and would be lost without your guidance.

I'm going to check out the circuits, tomorrow. I’ve been a bit lazy about it because I don’t like having to reset the clocks.

I'd like to have a dedicated circuit, for the AV system, alone and at least 20 amps.

I'm still somewhat unsure. In time, I'll make a decision and in the mean time, I'll keep at the panel. I need to buy a new doorbell transformer and one of the push buttons are also broken, need replacement.

I figure you’re kidding, but if you really want this person’s advice, I’d be more than happy to put you in touch with him!

Thanks,

John

Jim,

I turned on all the lights and appliances and one by one, turned off a breaker and looked for the effect. Here's what I discovered.

My main panel is a 125 amps and its length is horizontal, with the main switch on the right, breakers on the left. Most of the breakers are on the top row. The breaker closest to the main switch, on the top row, is for the fridge and microwave. The very next breaker, adjacent and to the left, away from the main switch, is the breaker for the audio circuit. The lights for the kitchen are on, yet, another circuit, to the left of the audio breaker.

Also, the panel has two ground cables and everything is as tight as can be.

So, I'm not sure why, then, but when I turn on the amp, the lights in the kitchen will dim, momentarily.

Once I choose surge protection/power conditioning, I'd like to build a dedicated circuit. I'd actually like to take a picture of the panel and send it to you or place it on here, so you can further guide me.

Can the draw from the amp, initially, be that great that it affects all the circuits?

Since I removed the buzzing doorbell transformer, the amp does seem quieter. I had it on for several hours, yesterday and before I went to bed, in the quiet of the night, the difference was noticeable. So, this is good.

Again, thanks!

John

Strange Panel layout! Not that it affects the electricity. Who is the manufacturer of the panel?

When you shut the audio breaker off did anything else go off? If nothing else went off, you already have a dedicated circuit.

The lights dimming when you turn the amp on is caused by a voltage drop. When anything is turned on, typically, is when largest amount of electricity is used. Do the lights dim when the refrigerator starts? The light circuit and the fridge circuit are on the same phase, while the audio circuit is on the "other" phase.

Take your meter and set it to voltage. Check the voltage between the two main feeds. Then check the voltage from each one of the feeds to ground. Then check the voltage from each one of the feeds to the neutral,(this should be the same reading as the feed to ground).

I'll PM you with my e-mail address for the photos. Jim

I forgot to add the surge suppression alone won't take care of the lights dimming. Jim

Jim,

the panel is manufactured by Sylvannia.

No, the amp seems to be on a dedicated circuit, as you suggest. The house is well divided, with lights and sockets on separate breakers.

The fridge and microwave have their own breaker, separate from the lights in the kitchen.

I'm not so concerned about the lights dimming, if what you're saying is that the voltage drop, as I turn on the amp, is across the board and normal?

I've never noticed the lights dimming when the refrigerator starts, only when the amp turns on, initially and momentarily.

I'll get a pic, this afternoon and send it along. And, I'll do as you advise.

thanks, Jim!

John

Can you hum a few bars for us? You never know, sometimes if you change the tune it helps.