Hey again Gonk,

Just wanted to run 1 more hook up by you. The last one worked out great, but...I now see that Key Digital makes a combo swither amp that might do the whole thing by itself, the other way I need 2 Key Digital products. Let me just run this by you. The Key Digital product is a KD-MSW4X2, it has 4 inputs and 2 outputs. Here is my hook up.

DVD comp out to 990 DVD comp in. Audio coax 1.
Sat comp out to 990 comp 1 in. Audio opt 1.
PS3 comp out to 990 comp 2 in. Audio opt 2.

Then 990 comp out to comp 1 in on Key Digital.

Xbox 360 comp out to Key Digital comp 2 in. Audio opt 3.
Nintnedo Wii comp out to Key Digital comp 3 in. Audio anolog in.

On Key Digital switch run comp out 1 to projector and comp out 2 to TV.

Similar to what we had in my last post, but now not having to switch inputs on the TV for the Wii and only having 1 Key Digital unit.

Let me know what you think??? Thanks again.

So with the Key Digital device (four inputs, two outputs) you'd be using three of the inputs and both outputs. And I assume that the auto switcher either has a remote control, or you'll have to make sure the 990's component output is inactive when using the 360 or Wii. In that case, borrowing from our previous debate, I could see the following setup working pretty cleanly:

• DVD: Connect the component cables to Component-DVD and the digital audio to coaxial1. Set the 990's DVD input to Comp-DVD and Coaxial1. Leave the label alone (already called DVD).
• Satellite: Connect the component cables to Component1 on the 990 and the digital audio to optical1. Set the 990's Video1 input to Comp-1 and Optical1. Edit Video1's input name to "SATELLITE" (which will just about use up the maximum number of characters available for a label name).
• PS3: Connect the component cables to Component 2 of the 990 and the digital audio to optical2. Set the 990's Video2 input to Comp-2 and Optical2. Edit Video2's name to "PS3".
• Xbox360: Connect the component cables to your auto switcher's Input2. Connect the digital audio to optical3. Set the 990's Video3 input to Composite video and Optical3 (the composite video selection should insure that the 990's component video output is not producing a signal when this input is active). Edit Video3's name to "XBOX360".
• Wii: Connect the component cables to your auto switcher's Input3 and connect the stereo analog cables to Video4 on the 990. Set the 990's Video3 input to composite video and analog audio (again, this will make sure the 990's monitor output is inactive); edit the name to "Wii". In this case, you would not want to use the Aux input unless you first switch to an inactive video input (such as Video3/Xbox360) to make sure the auto switcher doesn't have a video source from the 990 to confuse it).
• CD: Connect the CD's digital audio cable to optical4. Set the 990's CD input to optical4. Leave the label alone (already called CD).
• 990 and Displays: Your 990's component monitor output is going to the auto switcher's Input1 to drive both the HDTV and the projector. The HDTV gets a component video connection from the 990 downstream of the distribution amp and an HDMI connection straight from the sallite receiver. The projector gets a component video connection from the 990 downstream of the distribution amp.

The only possible challenge here is that if the component video switcher is purely an automatic switcher, you'll need to make sure that only one source is active between the 990, the Xbox360, and the Wii to make sure the correct source is going to your displays. If there is a manual control (preferably remote), this would simplify that. If it is switching based on sensing signals, you simply need to leave the 360 and Wii off when you're not using them and it should work fine. If it's manually switched (such as with a remote), then that doesn't even matter and it's purely a case of controlling the switch as you change sources.

Hey Gonk,
No, the new Key Digital swithcer that I would be using is actually NOT automatic. Has 2 buttons on the front and 4 inputs under each button. You can actually send 2 seperate signals, one to tv and one to projector at the same time. It is not an auto switcher like the other one, this is a 2 zone although I would only be running one source to one display at one time. Thanks.

Ah, so you'd be manually controlling which signal is active and which output it is going to. That should still work.

Yes, the beuty part is this:

I will only be viewing DVD and SAT thru the projector, no games. Everyting else, DVD, SAT, PS3, 360 and Wii will go thru the TV.

The front of the Key Digital is set up like 2 zones. Zone 1 on the left with the 4 inputs under it, zone 2 on the right with 4 inputs under that. I will leave zone 2 set on input 1 which gives me both DVD and SAT without ever changing inputs on the Key Digital. On zone 1 I will scroll thru input 1 for DVD, SAT and PS3. Input 2 will do 360 and input 3 will do Wii.

Not sure if this is better then just having to change the input on the TV for the Wii. What do you think???? Thanks again.

It does retain component output for the Wii and offer the ability to send component video from the Wii to the projector if you choose to do so later. It also replaces two devices (the auto switch and the splitter/booster) with a single device, which should simplify cabling somewhat. The one benefit to the original scheme is that it might be somewhat easier to operate (projector stays on one input, HDTV switches between two inputs based on whether or not Wii is being used, other switching is purely automatic thanks to either the 990 or the auto switcher sensing between the PS3 and the 360). Either one would work fine. What costs are associated with the various Key Digital devices in question?

Looks to be about $100.00 difference in price. The 4 X 2 is a little more. Key Digital is very expensive stuff but it is supposed to be the best. You should check out the web site if you ever get some time. I think it might just be easier to not have to go into the TV inputs.

If the 4x2 switcher is easier than the switcher, splitter, and changing TV inputs, then I'd go with the 4x2.

Thanks again Gonk, your time is much appreciated.

Glad to help, vp8000. Let us know how you like the system once you get it all set up!