Satellite
HDMI->DVI->990-DVI1
Toslink->990-optical1
I would run video SAT-HDMI->TV-HDMI1.
This would give you video and sound, even with the 990 turned off. If what you are trying to do is consolidate remotes to do everything using the 990's remote, buy something like a Harmony remote. There's no reason to limit your creativity just to eliminate a remote

PS3
HDMI->DVI->990-DVI2
Toslink->990-optical2
I would run video PS3-HDMI->TV-HDMI2. Same comments as the Satellite section.

CD
Coax->990-COAX1

DVD
Component->990-Component
Toslink->990-optical3

Nintendo Wii
set of analog video/audio out to same on 990
Some kids just have all the toys... :rolleyes:

TV video input
990-DVI->TV->HDMI
I would add at least an analog connection (i.e. S-video) from the 990 for OSD and for the Wii.

Projector video input
990-component_out->component_in
You could run component directly from the DVD to the projector for improved cable management.

What I suggest above saves you 2 HDMI cables and associated adapters and at least one set of component cables.

Looks like gonk beat me to it.

Will a component or s video signal going into the 990 come out thru the digial DVI on the 990. Will an anolog audio line going into the 990 go thru it and come out one of the digital outs???

This would work and would give you the option of viewing all sources on both displays. The trick is finding a splitter device like this - you can't just split the cable without messing up the signal. Here are three devices that would split the component video signal from the 990 to at least two devices while boosting the signal enough to compensate for the split:

- Shinybow 1-to-2 , $169
- Gefen 1-to-3 , $179
- CE Labs 1-to-4 , $104

Any one of these between the 990's component output and the two TV's (Toshiba and Marantz projector) would work very nicely.

Thanks so much to all,

I am looking forward to visiting this site often.
I am now going to go over all these scenario's and see what I come up with.
Not really a matter of remotes but want to run everything thru the 990 to make it easier. Turn on the 990 and switch it to whatever input you are going to be using. No changing inputs on the TV. Thanks again.

Composite and s-video are transcoded to component video out, but none of the analog video sources (composite, s-video, component) are transcoded to digital (DVI). The DVI switching is purely a switch between the two DVI inputs.

I don't recall if analog audio inputs are available at the digital audio outputs or not - it's not something I've ever used, and it's really only useful if you have a recording device with a digital input (which means basically some MiniDisc recorders and that's about it).

I think this approach is a good one - the 990's switching is clean enough that you lose nothing by doing it, and the convenience factor is significant. If you do go with the scheme you described at 4:00PM today (all analog video inputs) and get a splitter/booster for the component video signal you'll have a very convenient setup: the 990 will take care of all of your switching, and you'll be able to view any video source on either display.

Thanks so much guys. Just got home from work, long day and I am going to go over all this great info and make a decision and start wiring in the AM. I have been a audio/videophile for about 25 years or so. I have more cables then I know what to do with. Thanks again. I will let you guys know how I make out. I am sure I will have many questions when I go to fire up the system. My oold pre/pro was an acurus act 3.

Hey guys,

I have decided to go with my 4:00 PM post cable scenario. Just wanted to make sure I am not missing anything. What advantage would I have by adding any more cables??? Should I run the opt out on the TV to the 990???. Or leave both HDMI cables (I already own them) on the sat and PS3 also. Then I could switch imputs on the TV and use either of them without the 990 on. Same for the DVD??? Thanks again to all of you guys.

The reason to add an optical out from the TV would be if you planned to use the TV's built-in tuner. If you had an antenna (I use a Zenith Silver Sensor, but in some cases you might need to use a larger antenna on the roof or in the attic depending on how far away the broadcast towers are), you could use your TV's HD tuner to pick up local HD stations. If your DirecTV receiver is set up with its own over-the-air HD tuner, however, there's no reason to set up the TV as well.

If you use the arrangement from yesterday at 4:00, you'll need a splitter/booster before you can hook up both the HDTV and the projector. That approach is the best way to get video to both displays that you have. If you switch back to running HDMI straight to the TV, you'll lose that ability.