Checked all connections...looked over manual again...took all advice...left sounds fine, right, cycles to sub...SILENT...back around again...hmmm...maybe a bit more sleep. (I hate midnights...)
Thanks,
Bill

Started from the start...step by step...bought a dedicated Sub cable...voila'...she is running like she was designed!
Thanks for all the help.
Bill

so what exactly were you using before this "dedicated sub cable"? did you have a cable from the sub output (rca) at all? a subwoofer cable is just an rca interconnect that is "tuned" for low frequency sound, but any rca interconnect can pass the bass. no matter, glad you got it working.

Yup...just an interconnect...I should have gotten something...but nothing...don't know what I did different but I disconnected the cable, and went back and re-configuered everything...I must have missed a step but nothing looked "new" to me (nothing I hadn't done before, anyway)...checked the pink noise and got a sound from the sub...first smile, then started playing music and got a big smile.
I agree that the sub cable is not probably necessary but I wanted to remove all doubt...cheapest I could find was BB AR Sub Cable (cheaper than Radioshack...I just wanted to find the cheapest cable that said "Sub Cable" to remove that from my list of screw-ups...removed it and I think this cheap cable is going back to BB.
Thanks for all the help!
Bill

i dont dislike sub cables, but i just wanted you to know that the sub should work with any interconnect. sub cables are often much longer than regular interconnects as well...

I appreciate that...I am not too crazy about the AR cable...seems thin but that is not necessarilly mean it is "cheap." What do you think on Radioshack Gold cable...I have heard some say it is the same as "Mons*er" and many say "boutique" cables are not needed...I tend to fall somewhere towards the cheaper end unless I can see (hear) a noticable improvement.
Thanks,
Bill

many sing the praises for the ratshack cables... i have never tried them. i got all my cabling (except for what I have made) accomodation from Monster a few years back when I had the ability to do so. they are all top of the line monster, but they are not worth the retail prices and probably not even worth the accomodation prices which is like %65 off. a solid connector and some decent shielding fits the bill for most interconnects on typical length runs. a lot of people have adapted cat5 cable for interconnect use, which is just a solid conductor surround be an insulator (they terminate the ends into rcas obviously). i guess its all what you want, you can pay a lot more money for hardly/if any increase in performance, but they will surely look nice and have some snob appeal, or you can get the job done with your basic cable thats not straight out of the box...

i think you would only see a performance increase if you were to change the conductor metal in an interconnect (i.e. from copper to silver), but it is likely to be small as well... speaker wire has some more variables that affect performance, but interconnects are generally pretty standard. unless the connector doesnt hold tight or creates feedback, etc...

i think outlaw sells cables as well....

Thanks, curegeorg!
Bill

Here's a thought: Some software, i.e. the new reissues of RCA Living Stereo and Mercury Living Presence sacd's don't have a .1 output. Is it possible that you're not sending any signal to the lfm?