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#34633 - 01/25/04 02:04 PM LFM1 Cabling
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Gunslinger

Registered: 03/31/01
Posts: 129
Loc: las vegas, NV 89031
I'm planning to use the low level (RCA) connection from my 950 to my LFM1. I'll probably need 30' of cable for this. Where can I find cable of this length that is designed for a low level signal?

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#34634 - 01/25/04 02:35 PM Re: LFM1 Cabling
gonk Offline
Desperado

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 14054
Loc: Memphis, TN USA
Thirty feet is a pretty good run, so there aren't a lot of pre-made sources. One that I think is pretty reasonable is Blue Jeans Cables -- their sub cable page can be found here . A 30' cable from them would cost $40, a 35' would be $46, and a 40' would be $52.

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#34635 - 01/25/04 05:22 PM Re: LFM1 Cabling
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Gunslinger

Registered: 03/31/01
Posts: 129
Loc: las vegas, NV 89031
Thanks for the suggestion. Actually I was asking about a source for the cable to make my own and what type of cable I should use. I've looked at Sounhound's DIY interconnects but I'd like to use a more bendable or "supple" cable than RG59.

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#34636 - 01/26/04 01:25 AM Re: LFM1 Cabling
tekdredger Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 02/28/03
Posts: 142
Loc: Franklin, WI
Try Mogami Neglex 2534. I've been using it for years in all my DIY cables, long and short runs. It's actually a microphone cable so it is very soft and pliable. It bends nicely which sounds like what you are looking for. Here's a link to some spec's: http://www.mogamicable.com/mogami_cab/micr_cables/quad_micr/quad_micr.htm

It's available at markertek.com in bulk lengths at .78/ft.

Trust me this is good professional quality stuff and very popular and well respected among the DIY circles.

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Tekdredger

[This message has been edited by tekdredger (edited January 26, 2004).]
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#34637 - 01/26/04 01:50 PM Re: LFM1 Cabling
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Gunslinger

Registered: 03/31/01
Posts: 129
Loc: las vegas, NV 89031
That looks like the ticket! Question: How do I terminate a quad cable with an RCA connector? RCA's are designed to accept one inner-core wire and an outer shield.

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#34638 - 01/26/04 02:30 PM Re: LFM1 Cabling
tekdredger Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 02/28/03
Posts: 142
Loc: Franklin, WI
One pair is hot and one pair is ground. It doesn't matter which pair you use, they are the same from an engineering standpoint. For example, tie both blue wires together and solder to the center pin of the rca and solder both white wires to the ground terminal. The overall shield wire is also soldered to the ground terminal but only at one end of the cable...trim it back and leave it unterminated at the other end. See this link for further discussion of directional cables and shielding: http://ubb.outlawaudio.com/ubb/Forum14/HTML/000089.html
Hope this helps.


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#34639 - 01/26/04 02:33 PM Re: LFM1 Cabling
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Gunslinger

Registered: 03/31/01
Posts: 129
Loc: las vegas, NV 89031
Wow, thanks very much for the help on this matter. I really appreciate it. I'll post here again after I make my cable.

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#34640 - 01/26/04 09:53 PM Re: LFM1 Cabling
tekdredger Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 02/28/03
Posts: 142
Loc: Franklin, WI
My pleasure. It's always fun helping out a fellow enthusiast...especially someone who is willing to roll up his sleeves and get his hands dirty. Not only do you save a few bucks but you usually learn a bit along the way. The Outlaws have some great hardware but this forum may be their best "product". I think we are seeing the early stages of a new breed of educated consumer. There is a feeling of fraternity here that is reminiscent of the HAM radio days and the golden age of HiFi when amateur building was widespread. I'm not suggesting that everyone is going to start covering their kitchen tables with kits and DIY projects but forums like this one are starting to bring back an enthusiasm and thirst for knowledge that I find refreshing and contagious. A knowledgable consumer base is critical in these times when the home theater market is becoming more and more technically complicated. We need to share what we know with each other or we will end up being force fed by the large corporate producers of consumer grade electronics. And in that instance ignorance is definitely not bliss. Thanks again to the folks at Outlaw for giving us this space to share. I hope I don't hurt my leg getting down off this soapbox now.

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Tekdredger
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#34641 - 01/26/04 10:06 PM Re: LFM1 Cabling
worldwide Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 03/31/01
Posts: 129
Loc: las vegas, NV 89031
I, um.....agree. I purchased a 40' piece of bulk "microphone cable" that has a two wire core and braided copper shielding. It is very pliable and bendable wich is what I was looking for. I also purchased a pair of high quality RCA connectors. I'll terminate the ends as you describe in your previous post. Thanks again.

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#34642 - 02/03/04 11:58 AM Re: LFM1 Cabling
kidrock Offline
Deputy Gunslinger

Registered: 02/03/04
Posts: 8
Loc: Prairieville, La. 70769
Quote:
Originally posted by tekdredger:
One pair is hot and one pair is ground. It doesn't matter which pair you use, they are the same from an engineering standpoint. For example, tie both blue wires together and solder to the center pin of the rca and solder both white wires to the ground terminal. The overall shield wire is also soldered to the ground terminal but only at one end of the cable...trim it back and leave it unterminated at the other end. See this link for further discussion of directional cables and shielding: http://ubb.outlawaudio.com/ubb/Forum14/HTML/000089.html
Hope this helps.



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#34643 - 02/03/04 12:01 PM Re: LFM1 Cabling
kidrock Offline
Deputy Gunslinger

Registered: 02/03/04
Posts: 8
Loc: Prairieville, La. 70769
Quote:
Originally posted by tekdredger:
My pleasure. It's always fun helping out a fellow enthusiast...especially someone who is willing to roll up his sleeves and get his hands dirty. Not only do you save a few bucks but you usually learn a bit along the way. The Outlaws have some great hardware but this forum may be their best "product". I think we are seeing the early stages of a new breed of educated consumer. There is a feeling of fraternity here that is reminiscent of the HAM radio days and the golden age of HiFi when amateur building was widespread. I'm not suggesting that everyone is going to start covering their kitchen tables with kits and DIY projects but forums like this one are starting to bring back an enthusiasm and thirst for knowledge that I find refreshing and contagious. A knowledgable consumer base is critical in these times when the home theater market is becoming more and more technically complicated. We need to share what we know with each other or we will end up being force fed by the large corporate producers of consumer grade electronics. And in that instance ignorance is definitely not bliss. Thanks again to the folks at Outlaw for giving us this space to share. I hope I don't hurt my leg getting down off this soapbox now.


Hey great fedback on how to terminate the MOGAMI 2534 cable with RCA interconnects. One small question. In your wording you mention,
"The overall shield wire is also soldered to the ground terminal but only at one end of the cable...trim it back and leave it unterminated at the other, etc..."
Ok when you mention trim it back and leave it unterminated at the other end what end are you trimming back? It appears that you are leaving one end unterminated and the other end terminated and trimmed back or is it the other way around?
Thank you

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#34644 - 02/03/04 06:56 PM Re: LFM1 Cabling
tekdredger Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 02/28/03
Posts: 142
Loc: Franklin, WI
Sorry if my wording caused any confusion. Let me see if I can explain this a little further. I'll confine my comments to the Mogami cable but the techniques may certainly apply to other cables as well. First to clarify, the "trimmed" end is the unterminated end. To do this the Mogami is very easy to work with because the insulation and filler materials are slippery and not bonded to the spiral shield. After the outer jacket is cut you can grasp the inner conductors and stroke the jacket back up the length of the cable a little bit. You might have to do this a couple times to get it to stay back, it is slippery. At this point, use a small cutters to "trim" the copper shield wire flush with the end of the jacket. After the shield wire is cut, stroke the jacket back down toward the cut end of the cable. The trimmed end of the shield wire will dissappear under the jacket and be covered 1/8" to 1/4" or so. This prevents the shield from contacting the metal shell of the RCA plugs when they are assembled. With the shield wire trimmed go ahead and pair off the inner conductors and connect as previously mentioned.
Hope this helps. Just ask if you have anymore questions.

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Tekdredger
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#34645 - 02/04/04 09:04 PM Re: LFM1 Cabling
kidrock Offline
Deputy Gunslinger

Registered: 02/03/04
Posts: 8
Loc: Prairieville, La. 70769
To Tekdredger:
Once again thanks a million for taking the time to clarify the MOGAMI issue. I did want to mention that I have been using RG59 coax as interconnects and also for the long runs for my two subwoofers. Since I do not have any test equipment, do you see any reason why or why not Belden RG59 cabling cannot be used?
Thank you

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#34646 - 02/06/04 09:14 PM Re: LFM1 Cabling
tekdredger Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 02/28/03
Posts: 142
Loc: Franklin, WI
Quote:
Originally posted by kidrock:
To Tekdredger:
...do you see any reason why or why not Belden RG59 cabling cannot be used?
Thank you


RG-59 can certainly be used, soundhound has certainly proved that elsewhere in this forum. However, as worldwide mentioned in his post, coax can be stiff and hard to work with. The materials used in RG-59 cables varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and series to series within the same vendor. You mentioned Belden by name and I haven't checked their catalog but I would guess they have at least a couple dozen different cable types in the RG-59 category. Each with slightly different materials and geometries. Whether these differences effect sound quality when used as an interconnect cable is up to the user to decide. There is one type I would stay away from and that is the type with a coated steel center conductor. Steel types give the cable strength but the ferrous content in the steel has been reported to cause some time smearing effects in the audio band (remember the cable was designed for RF not audio).


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Tekdredger
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