Larry, not sure how to answer the question "Where do you have your 1050 set to for 75db?" Are you asking what the 1050 volume control is to get 75db on the Radio Shack decibel meter?

My LF and RF are 6' high, mounted w/ BA's "swivel mounting kit" so that they point down and inward a bit. Sub is next to the TV cabinet. Room is longer than it is wide, so the surrounds are a bit back.

I misspoke earlier -- I too connected the L and R Sub wires to the LF and RF speaker wires at the 1050 binding posts (imagine a star configuration from the 1050). I also use a shielded RCA plug to the LFE of the sub, maybe that makes a difference.

Gonk, what do you mean by "Had the speakers been connected to the speaker outputs of the subwoofer, the sub's crossovers would have allowed the sub to handle the low frequency material and also weed that material out of the signals going to the satellites so that they didn't try to reproduce it as well." ?

Not to stir trouble, but those speaker sub connections are inputs, aren't they? They don't modify the signals sent to the LF and RF speakers. I'm guessing that the sub filters the L/R speaker signals, and combines the filtered L/R signals with the LFE signal.

Here's newman's earlier post that described his experience with the BA 9000's. Maybe I need to pull out my manuals and notes to get a better understanding of all this. (Or maybe I need to contact Boston Acoustics to get a better understanding of how their sub works???)

[This message has been edited by urbnwndsfr (edited December 23, 2002).]

Stir away, here's a big spoon -- because I had assumed that the sub in the BA 9000's was configured similarly to other subs that I'd seen before (for example, the SVS PC-Plus amp and some passive subs in sub/sat systems). Those subs have two sets of binding posts -- left and right inputs that would be connected to the receiver's left and right speaker outputs, and left and right outputs that the speakers themselves are connected to. The subwoofer's inputs would pass to a crossover circuit to strip away the high frequency material (the low-pass filter) so the sub only gets the material that it is capable of reproducing. At the same time, the sub's crossovers would send the original signal through a high-pass filter to remove the bass from the signal being passed along to the sub's outputs (and from there to the speakers). If it does not do so, then you will get the same bass signal twice.

However, my assumption was quite thoroughly wrong! A quick visit to the Tech Support page at BA's site gave me a link to the manual for the 9000 II system. According to the manual (beginning around page 7), the Micro PV sub has speaker level inputs but no speaker level outputs. Having discovered that, I'm off to scratch my head a little and try to determine why BA would recommend hooking up a powered sub via both line level and speaker level connections...

------------------
gonk -- Saloon Links | Pre/Pro Comparison Chart | 950 Review

Ok, have a look at this . . .

http://www.bostonacoustics.com/Manuals/9000II9500Man.pdf

On page 10 is how I have my speakers connected. I at first tried it how the diagram is configured. With the sub speaker wires running to the 1050 and the sat wires running to the 1050. This gave the sound I described. I then ONLY disconnected the wires at the sub to try it out.

My LFE cable is an Acoustic Research LFE cable, I assume it is shielded.

urbnwndsfr: Yes, I was asking at what volume number the 1050 is reading when you are seeing 75db from the front speakers. Mine is at 62 using the Avia CD.

It sounds like our speakers are in the same basic configuration/location.

My sub is on a 25' LFE cable because it is placed about 12-14 feet from my 1050 and had a choice of a 12 or a 25' cable. Plus I ran the wires under the floor and needed the extra length for everything.

gonk: I will post my picture when I get home tonight. The back of the BA Sub has 4 connections:

LF Speaker +/-
RF Speaker +/-
LFE
Sub Out

The speaker connections are the cheap spring loaded things. My 14/2 wire barely fit. It was also quite a struggle to get two 14/2 wires into the back of the 1050, forget about even attempting to do that in the Micro 90xII sats! lol

Gonk, while you are off scratching your head, read page 10 of the manual.

Larry

Larry

Don't worry about the pics -- I found it in the manual that you linked earlier. Just not sure yet why they are recommending it, although Newman has some good stuff in his post (haven't had time to go through it the way I want to).

As for the wiring -- been there. I bi-wire my mains and center, and I initially tucked two sets of 12ga wire into each binding post on those channels back before I got my 750. I strongly recommend spades for that. Still not easy to do while reaching around the back of an entertainment center, but easier...

------------------
gonk -- Saloon Links | Pre/Pro Comparison Chart | 950 Review

I read Newman's post and it didn't make sense to me . . . he sounded as though he set the 1050 to 120hz x-over for the sub, plus he has the RCA wire running from the sub-out on the sub to either the LFE on the 1050 or something he never mentions, still not certain on that.

He also talks about a 120hz low pass filter in the BA sub, as far as I know the sub has a 150hz x-over . . . or is the low pass filter NOT the same as the x-over?

He also talks about an LPF connector, what is that? I have an LFE and a sub-out.

I guess it is also entirely possible that BA changed the sub between March and November(my sub build date) I will contact BA tomorrow and see if I can get some answers.

Go back and read newman's post and tell me if it does or does not confuse you.

Larry

LarryTT,

(responding to your question a number of posts ago)

I have the same TV as you, I think...mine's the Sony KV-32FS10. It's two years old. I found that pretty much all the codes on those sites were the same from the XBR to my TV, but there were a bunch on the XBR that I didnt' have. But for sure all of the pincushion, bow, v-angle, etc., that you use to get a straight, square picture was the same. But if they are not, I found it pretty easy to figure out how all of that stuff works and get a dialed in picture.

I'm sure you are using the crosshatch pattern from the Avia disk (but if not, that's the right thing to use). I was able to get the picture a big step forward w/o ordering the service manual.

HDCO1107: I have the KV32FS100, it is the new version, got it a few weeks ago.

I ordered the Service Manual just to have it. I compared my 6 page Excel spreadsheet of every single code that I wrote down to the various XBR codes on a few different sites. Very few even look the same. I would rather spend the $30 for the manual then risk possibly messing with something that should not be messed with. This way I might even be able to fine tune the TV even better.

I will post all of my results once I am finished.

Larry

This is how I had the front speakers and the sub speaker wires connected.



[This message has been edited by LarryTT (edited December 23, 2002).]

Larger Photo:

Here is the back of the BA Sub.

Larry

[This message has been edited by LarryTT (edited December 24, 2002).]

Larry, the way I read Newman's post, is that he ended up using the configuration on page 10 of the BA manual (speaker-level and LFE connections). I agree it's a bit confusing, but "filtered" means the Sub input of the BA sub, and "unfiltered" means the LFE input of the BA sub.

It sounds like this whole debate is summarized on page 10 of the BA manual:

Option 1 (What I use, what you tried and didn't like):

Dolby Digital Systems
The recommended wiring for all Dolby Digital receivers is to use both speaker wire and
line-level connections to the subwoofer, as shown below. Use an RCA cable (not included) to connect your receiver’s Sub out or LFE out jack to the appropriate Line in jack on the subwoofer, as shown below. On your receiver’s set-up menu:
Select “LARGE” for the front left/right speakers.
Select “SMALL” for the center channel speaker and the rear surround speakers .
Select “SUBWOOFER-YES”.

Option 2 (what you seem to prefer):

NOTE: It is also acceptable (though not optimal) to connect the subwoofer to the Dolby Digital receiver’s “Sub out” or “LFE out” without also using speaker wires. In this configuration, on your receiver’s set-up menu:
Select “SMALL” for the front left/right speakers.
Select “SMALL” for the center channel speaker and the rear surround speakers .
Select “SUBWOOFER-YES”.
When using this configuration, refer to the Dolby Pro Logic wiring diagram shown on page 9. [only LFE or Sub input of BA Sub connected to receiver LFE/Sub output]

The real question is why does BA consider Option 2 not optimal. Let me know BA's response. If they don't answer, maybe I'll try asking them as well.

Cheers, UW

[This message has been edited by urbnwndsfr (edited December 24, 2002).]