i have a dedicated 15 amp circuit for lexicon cp3,acurus a250w amp,acurus 200w/3ch amp, adcom 60w/ch, cd/dvd player, lazerdisk player, 50in big screen, x box game system, vcr, and a 250w sub and never had any problems in a 22 by 12 foot room even at high volume levels. i recently switched to the 950 prepro/770 combo and listen to movies at reference levela (00) without any problems.

All of your comments have put any worries I had to rest..thanks everyone

------------------
Play it LoUd!!

I used to do professional sound reinforcement for a spell and we were using Crown amps and EAW speakers, a full array that had 25,000 watts of power. At 120V, you would expect this thing to have needed 208A of power. Well, we decided to see what the actual duty cycle was of some different types of music pushing full volume thru this set up. We rented a 150A generator for an outdoor setup, knowing we didn't need a full 208A right off the bat. We put a current meter on the generator and compared it to the one that came with the generator, both were in synch. So we played some various types of rock/rap/jazz/classical and white/pink noise at high volumes at our college we worked at. We could not get the current draw above 35Amps, we were shocked. But the duty cycle of the music was such that the amps were never all running in synch for max consumption.

The 770 situation is very similar and the testing posted earlier herein verifies the same findings. Take the TV's and other components out of the mix and the current will drop to something that is like 30% of the duty cycle needed.

Does this mean I will not try and give my set up the most juice I can, absolutely not, I am trying to get as much of a dedicated 15A source as possible to power this puppy. Just so I can have peace of mind if anything. Do I feel I need a 20A circuit? Nope, not with mostly 8 ohm speakers running. If I were running 4 ohms all the way around, I would definitely set up a 20A circuit dedicated then. I noticed a big change in one of our Amps when I had some JBL subs for an auditorium rewired for 4 ohms from 8 ohms. The AMP finally started to get warm and the speakers finally started playing loud like they should in the setup.

Coincidentally, word of caution, never use 1/4" speaker connectors with a 10,000 watt AMP. I learned this on one of the channels (5000Watt potential) when I cupped the tip and ring with my hand unsuspectingly. I knew better, but in my quest to play with such power, I got careless. Nothing major, just a numb hand for the rest of the day, no scarring thankfully. Sure makes you love and respect all that power.

IMO your post is exactly on point. The beast is RATED (probably fused or otherwise protected as well) to draw a maximum of 15 amperes.

I find this thread very interesting. I'm glad to see somebody with the know-how actually took the time to test in a real world environment. Even though each setup can vary somewhat, I'm glad to see those findings seem to coincide with my take on the matter.

I have a dedicated 20A cirtcuit for my HT equipment, but all of my HT equipment is on the circuit, including the TV and sub. I figure this would be OK because I'm only using 6 channels on the Outlaw 770, with fairly efficient 6-8ohm speakers. I figured the chances of the 770 actually drawing more than 15A were pretty much nill, and I still think that likely to be the case. I certainly haven't had any problems driving the system loud enough to make my wife yell at me.

One thing I did do is put the 770 on its own PanaMAX 5100, with everything else on a second 5100. I figured that way I could be pretty sure of giving the amp a full 15A if it ever really needed it.

I don't know...I kinda like it that all the lights in the house dim when I power on my home theatre!

You might want to look at the isobar UltraCopy surge suppressor. It's designed to work with 20 amp lines.

Jeff