All those using PermaSeal I connectors:

Please see my most recent post regarding how the RG59 is to be stripped for the PermaSeal I connectors. Is the braid left on the white inner insulation of the RG59? I left the braid on and it was fairly difficult to push the cable on to the barrel within the connector. I suspect that the braid was getting mangled as I pushed the cable on the barrel within the connector. It would seem that if the braid was removed it would be easier to slide the cable on the barrel within the connector. The braid would be in contact with inner barrel for the portion of the unstripped cable within the connector. However, I'm not sure removing the braid would provide the necessary connection. How have you done it? Thanks again!

AvFan - You do need to leave the braid on, and don't remove it. Otherwise, the inner barrel could just be pushing the unexposed braid further back. I typically fold the braid over the outer jacket before pushing the connector on, it makes it easier to push the connector on in my experience.

I trim it and "fold it back over" as well.

Cheers,

Fellow PermaSeal Users,

I made over twenty custom length and colored cables today using PermaSeal I connectors and Belden 1505A RG59 coaxial cable. While the process takes some time, boy was it worth it. The "spaghetti" behind my cabinet is gone and has been replaced with organized cable runs between my components. Thanks again to everyone that helped me get this all figured out. I learned some things along the way that I'd like to share.

1. The Belden 1505A cable I used had a foil shield under the braid and it must be removed before sliding the cable into the connector. So fold the braid back and strip the foil. If you don't you run the risk of the foil making an electrical connection between the pin and the remainder of the connector. As you might guess I had a bad cable because of this. Thanks to Sluggo and Ritz for the recommendation to fold back the braid; that's how I found the foil.

2. Check continuity between the pins, outside barrel of the connectors and between a pin and the barrel before using the crimper to make sure a spare piece of braid did not make a connection between the pin and the rest of the connector. You can fix it versus throwing the cable away. I also checked the continuity after crimping.

3. Make sure the exposed solid center conductor is straight, e.g no little kinks. It makes it a lot easier to fully insert the cable in the connector.

4. The RS stripper Sluggo recommended worked great. It was already set up for 1/4" - 1/4" stripping so all I had to do was adjust the blade depth.

5. Cablesforless.com (Connectors and Steren tool) and Westlake Electronic Supply (colored Belden coax) had reasonable prices and prompt shipping. Thanks, Brad225 for recommending Cablesforless.

I have a few more cables to make to connect a VCR and double up on digital audio (Coax and optical) between my DVD and the 990. I'm going to set one of the DVD's digital outputs for CD music only.

All-in-all the process of making my own cables was very satisfying. Again, thanks to those on this forum for pitching in!

Glad it all worked out! 8-)

It's been a while since I made my cabling, you reminded me of that blasted foil. Thanks for sharing some good wisdom, and I'm glad to hear it turned out well for you.

I am wondering what the best choice for in wall Coax for RCA Inter-connects is? This post talks alot about RG-59 because it's more flexible, but isn't RG-6 better for Signal loss? Thanks for the help.

scribner,

I don't have the background to compare RG59 to RG6 but when I had a in-wall coax custom made for a subwoofer (before I learned how to make my own) by a local electronics company they used RG59. The run with all the bends is about 20' and I've not had any problems. I'm sure RG6 would work too. I would use a quality cable from Canare or Belden (versus generic cable from Home Depot) and good connectors from Canare or Steren. I recall an ealier post that used RG6 terminated with an F connector and then a F to RCA adapter was used to connect a sub. Hope this helps.

I realize I'm reviving an old thread here... but hopefully it will catch on again. This is a great discussion and a bit more rational than some over at the cable asylum.

I make almost all of my own cables, even fiber. Being a network engineer in a former life, polishing fiber come second nature and it's pretty easy once you get the hang of it. I'll have to admit I have been giving a hard look to both the Monoprice fancy metal connector optical and the Outlaw PDO. I placed an order for the monprice and will check it out in a few days.

Here's the rest of my setups:
Component Video:
Canare V3-5C with Canare RCAs

Subwoofer:
1x Belden 1694a with Canare RCAs
2x Canare LV-77s with Canare RCAs

Analog audio:
Decent mix of things, all DIY

Digital audio
Canare LV-77s with Canare RCAs

Speaker cables:
MIT T2s mains & center
AudioQuest in-wall rear surrounds
I made a few sets of DIY Cat5 terminated in MIT ICONN ends, but never found them "right" in my system and sold them off.

Digital satellite (throughout house)
Belden 1694a with either Canare FP-C53a F-connectors (pricey but very good) or F-conn FS6U connectors (best compression-type fittings i've ever used)

openhelix,

Thanks for sharing all your various cables. I enjoyed making my own rca cables though I certainly never advanced to do fiber. I have the Outlaw balanced cables between my 990 and ATI amp and I considered making my own balanced cables but never got around to it. I considered the Canare rca connectors but I couldn't find a good enough deal on the tool and dies to make it worth it. The Steren tool and connectors meet my needs at a lower price, but those Canares look sharp!

I just bought an OPPO 980H and I may need to redo some of analog rca cables used for DVD-A and SACD. Video will now be via HDMI (Monoprice) versus component to a new Pioneer 50" plasma (arrives Wednesday!)

Many folks like Outlaw cables (me included) and many others use Bluejean cables but I've never purchased anything from them. I was more interested in getting custom lengths and reducing the tangle behind my component cabinet.