anyone have some good threads to read on line conditioners? here or maybe avsforum?
Have a 950/7100 combo in a component closet. There I can use it for all components except the samsung dlp 61" TV. Think I should run a dedicated power line to the conditioner for the tv as well? any thoughts on how much bang for the buck is REALLY necessary when choosing a conditioner. I have good reliable power company. thanks , Brett

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;-)

as little as possible that guarantees the connected gear. if your power is good, the line conditioner cannot make it any better... there is talk here about them...

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This post has been brought to you by curegeorg, thanks for reading.

Do a search on this forum wher this topic has been discussed at length. Personally, I recommend the TrippLite Isobar units which are intended for professional users and facilities. Since they don't carry the marketing baggage of consumer gear, they are also less expensive than most.

The only thing you lose with the Tripplite is power triggers. I personally wanted this feature which sort of limited me to the more consumer oriented brands (e.g. Panamax and Monster) If this isnt an issue or desire for you then the Triplite model looks great.

Hi I looked at the Tripplite sight...very interested in power conditioners they offer....how do I size them up for what I need? Do I go with the total wattage ratings of my equipment or what? Thanks for turning me on to them.

I ended up get a panamax unit...the real important thing is to get a sales rep that knows what he is talking about. You'll need to isolate the monitor, sub, and all other components, including their patch cable to really protect your system. I noticed a difference in sound after installing the panamax. Seems I can hear suble things I could'nt catch before in movies surround tracks. good luck!

Bought a Monster 3500 MK II, works great. There was a slight difference in Audio, but the Video difference was huge. Have no complaints with the unit.

unless the unit is regulating voltage or current or the likes, then why not just buy an ac filter, because that is all that you are paying for other than a surge strip. would come out a lot cheaper i presume.

Is anyone familiar with Running Springs power conditioners?

If I was going to spend that much on a power conditioner I would probably buy one of THESE

I currently use two monster units since I have my DVR, 2 amps and my TV on one rack and all other components on the other. For me the benefit of these units is also in the fact that by running my satellite/cable/antenna through the units I remove any potential ground loops. I realized this when I had a ground loop problem in my old house. Even redoing all the outside grounds and consolidating them with heftier bridging cable only reduced the hum but did not eleiminate it. As soon as I connected in the monster unit and ran the satellite and antenna cables through the unit the hum disappeared. So there are additional benefits from these units beyond "simple filters". Never a good idea to pre-sume/ass-ume

I'm looking at the Panamax 5100 and the Monster 3500 MK II. (Which I have to admit looks cooler than the Panamax unit and is slightly more expensive.) I have a 50" RPTV, DVD, 2 Dish receivers, a VCR (never used), a 1050 and an LFM-1.

Can they all (should they all) be plugged into one unit? (Either the Panamax or the Monster.)

I recently ran a dedicated 20 amp circuit to this location and have the LFM-1 plugged directly into the wall with the rest of the equipment split between 2 surge protectors.

(Going back through and reading some other posts, which Tripp-Lite unit would be comparable to the two units I've mentioned above?)

Thanks,
Todd

A 20A circuit can provide up to 2400W. The total connected electrical load would be 2150W (assuming 185W for the RPTV, 20W for the VCR and DVD each, 50W each for the two Dish receivers, 425W for the Model 1050, and 1400W for the LFM-1). In reality, the LFM-1 will rarely draw 1400W even for a moment, and in general the RMS output rating of the amp (325W), which puts the real load somewhere reasonably below 1800W (or 15A at 120V). The MAX5100 is rated for 1800W, and I suspect the Monster 3500 is similarly rated since that allows the unit to be connected to a dedicated 15A circuit and offer the full resources of that circuit to the downstream load. I wouldn't feel bad about connecting everything to the 5100 (probably with the LFM-1 and 1050 on the two high current outlets). If you were worried about it, you could provide separate surge protection for the LFM-1 and put everything else on the 5100 or 3500 and still have capacity to spare in both the power conditioner and the 20A circuit.