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#12070 - 11/13/03 04:14 PM Home Theater Power
Oil Can Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 03/05/02
Posts: 138
Loc: Shelbyville, KY, USA
The time has come to run dedicated power to my home theater. I will probably run one twenty-amp circuit, or split the PS Audio Power Port and run two separate circuits. That way I can have one circuit for digital components, and one for analog components. Code here in my part of Illinois is that all exposed wiring must be in conduit. I figure that I can run four conductors that are 10 AWG in one-inch conduit, and not run into any problems. I would like to use a cable that has the wire pairs twisted to help cancel any induced noise. Any information, or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

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#12071 - 11/13/03 09:59 PM Re: Home Theater Power
Hullguy Offline
Desperado

Registered: 01/17/02
Posts: 380
Loc: South Weymouth, MA USA
It is a electrical code requiring pipe for your circuits in your house!!!
I've been a Master Electrician for 20 years in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. Running #10 wire is good if you have a long distance to run the wire for voltage drop. For a 20 amp circuit you only need #12 wire. According to the National Electrical code you can put 26 #12 or 16 #10 wires with THHN, (Thermoplastic High Heat Nylon), in a piece of 1" pipe. The THHN insulation is common and has a temperature rating of 90 degrees centigrade. I would use 3/4" EMT, (electrical metallic tubing) as my pipe for this job. You can install 16 #12 or 10 #10 wires in this size pipe. using 2 wires a circuit gives you a maximum of 8 circuits with #12 or 5 circuits with #10 wire. I highly recommend you pull a ground wire, sized the same as the wire you decide to use, in with the circuits. It's not required but it is a better job.

As far as induced noise is concerned, a properly installed piece of pipe will drain any voltages from out side the pipe.. It will not "clean" any noise already on the circuits supplied from the power company.

I also recommend a electrical panel mounted surge protector. This protects the whole hose from any surges on your elctrical power wires.

Hope this information helps you out. Good luck and feel free to ask any questions. Jim

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#12072 - 11/14/03 02:03 PM Re: Home Theater Power
charlie Offline
Desperado

Registered: 01/14/02
Posts: 1176
Quote:
Originally posted by Hullguy:
It is a electrical code requiring pipe for your circuits in your house!!!


He said it's exposed - not in the wall.

Or were you pointing out it's NEC, not state code?



[This message has been edited by charlie (edited November 14, 2003).]
_________________________
Charlie

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#12073 - 11/15/03 06:00 AM Re: Home Theater Power
Hullguy Offline
Desperado

Registered: 01/17/02
Posts: 380
Loc: South Weymouth, MA USA
Sorry about the typo. It is NEC, on which the local codes are based. Oil Can, is there any special reason you are going to run this exposed? Are your walls made out of block or brick? Jim

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#12074 - 11/17/03 11:15 AM Re: Home Theater Power
Oil Can Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 03/05/02
Posts: 138
Loc: Shelbyville, KY, USA
No the walls are not made of block. The exposed wiring would be in the basement. Code here mandates that this wiring must be in conduit. Even BX is not acceptable. The longest run of BX, or Greenfield is six feet between junction boxes. I am looking for a recommendation on wire. Belden has some Fire Tray products, which are shielded, and are twisted pair. Thanks.

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#12075 - 11/18/03 08:12 PM Re: Home Theater Power
Hullguy Offline
Desperado

Registered: 01/17/02
Posts: 380
Loc: South Weymouth, MA USA
To be honest Oil CanI think using twisted, shielded wire is over kill for power. Using this is not going to eliminate any noise induced onto the wires out in the street before reaching your house. I whole heartedly agree twisted shielded pair cable is neccessary when transmiting data or control signals.

If you want clean power then you have to get into a line conditioner to correct any noise on your feeds. Jim

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#12076 - 12/08/03 09:04 AM Re: Home Theater Power
DaleB Offline
Gunslinger

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 146
Loc: Clovis, CA,US
In addition to the above recommendations, I would use a line conditioner that will also remove power in the case of large voltage fluctations (high and low) not just protection against transients. Panamax and others make those.

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